Sunday, January 30, 2011

how to remove the overhead console on ford f-350?

Here is the process to remove and repair the overhead console in your truck.

First, you must remove the outer shell (colored to match the interior of your truck). There are five tension clips that hold the shell in place.see fig:--

Right click on the image and select option "open image in new web" if the image is not seen full or its very small to see.-----------

Begin by pulling downward (I just use my fingers to prevent damage) on the front (toward windshield) of the shell. You must pull VERY hard - it feels like it will break, but has never happened to me, and I've done a few now.

Once the front two tension clips pop loose, you must release two "L" shaped tension clips that lock into the storage compartment. You can BARELY see the tips of the clips when looking inside the compartment.See fig:--

Right click on the image and select option "open image in new web" if the image is not seen full or its very small to see.-----------

Use a flat head screwdriver or similar tool to push out on the clips until they release. I've also tried reaching above the outer shell to pull on these clips (rather than pushing from inside the storage compartment), but my hands are too big.

Once these two are released, there is one final tension clip on the rear that comes off fairly easily.

Next, you will see the black inner shell. See fig:--

Right click on the image and select option "open image in new web" if the image is not seen full or its very small to see.-----------

First, unplug the wire harness , See fig:--

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on the passenger side of the unit. Next, you must again pull from the front (toward the windshield) with force to release two additional tension clips. Finally, tilt ,See fig :--

Right click on the image and select option "open image in new web" if the image is not seen full or its very small to see.-----------

the unit downward to release the "L" bracket at the rear (the "L" shaped bracket slides into a hole in the roof - no pulling required).

Once you have the unit out, remove the circuit board from the inner shell by removing the three torx screws (I believe they are 8mm but I can't recall).

Once the circuit board is removed, locate the 7 chips,see fig :--

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on the circuit board behind the display. They are labeled 620 and 680. The two I most often find loose are the two in the center directly behind the display - but check them all. Once the loose chips are located, re-attach them using a soldering pen (DO NOT USE A SOLDERING GUN AS THEY ARE TOO HOT AND MAY DAMAGE THE CIRCUIT BOARD). If there is not sufficient solder already in place (often the case for me), add additional solder as needed.

Now test the display by plugging , See fig:--

Right click on the image and select option "open image in new web" if the image is not seen full or its very small to see.-----------

in just the board in your truck and turn the key. If all works, put the board back on the inner shell and then replace the inner shell and plug in the wire harness. Then snap the outer shell in place and enjoy!

Check out my gallery for additional photos. If you find the chips are not the problem and the board is actually dead, check out ebay or similar locations to find a better deal than the $500 the dealer wants. I've never had luck at scrap yards, but you might try those also.

How to tight the side mirron on chevrolet and other car models.IF they tend to get loose:---

With the remote control door outside mirror, the remote control mirror cable must be disengaged from the door trim assembly on the standard trim styles to permit trim panel removal.

On custom trim styles the remote control mirror cable must be disengaged from the upper trim panel and the upper trim panel must be removed to permit lower trim panel removal.

Refer to the illustrations for both custom trim and standard trim.

The mirror glass face may be replaced by placing a piece of tape over the glass then breaking the mirror face. Adhesive back mirror faces are available.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION



See Figures 1 and 2

  1. From the inside of the door remove the retaining screw.



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 1: Unfasten the retaining screw, then ...

  1. Remove the outside mirror escutcheon by pulling inward.



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 2: ... remove the outside mirror bezel/escutcheon

  1. For manual mirrors, remove mirror control handle/knob and remove escutcheon.
  2. If equipped with power mirrors, detach the electrical connector.
  3. Remove the gasket, then unfasten the retaining nuts and remove the mirror from the door.

To install:
  1. Install the mirror to the door and secure with the retaining nuts. Tighten the nuts to 45 in. lbs. (5 Nm).
  2. Install the gasket and, if equipped with power mirrors, attach the electrical connector.
  3. Slide the escutcheon onto handle shaft and install handle.
  4. Snap the escutcheon into place and install the retaining screw.
There should be a plastic piece with a circle of holes in it. use a flathead screw driver and stuck it in each hole to force the plastic retianing clips to let loose. the plastic comes off. Push the glass in plasce and the plastic clips snap it in place.

Saturday, January 29, 2011

Random misfire code gets set on car when engine gets warm or in hot conditions?

A random misfire code can be set on newer vehicles with OBD II onboard diagnostics when multiple misfires occur randomly in multiple cylinders. The cause is typically a vacuum leak in the intake manifold, throttle body or vacuum plumbing, a defective Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve that is leaking exhaust into the intake manifold, or even bad gasoline.

QUICK DIAGNOSTIC CHECKS

Start by checking engine intake vacuum. Connect a vacuum gauge to a vacuum port on the intake manifold. Start the engine and note the vacuum reading.

On most engines, intake vacuum should be steady between 16 and 22 inches. A lower reading usually indicates a vacuum leak, but it might also indicate an exhaust backpressure problem (such as a plugged catalytic converter) , worn valve guides or weak valve springs. A vacuum reading that gradually drops while the engine is idling almost always points to an exhaust restriction. An oscillating vacuum reading usually indicates a leaky valve or worn valve guides.

If the engine is experiencing any of the following symptoms, a vacuum leak is probably causing the P0300 random misfire DTC:

Too fast an idle speed. The powertrain control module (PCM) will maintain normal idle speed and compensate for a small vacuum leak by closing down the throttle body air bypass. But if the leak is too large and the idle control system cannot compensate for the extra air, the engine may idle too fast. Common leak paths include the throttle body gaskets, intake manifold gasket, any of the engine vacuum fittings, hoses or vacuum-operated accessories (such as the power brake booster or EVAP canister purge valve). It is even possible that leaky O-rings around the fuel injectors may be allowing air to leak past the seals. Another overlooked item can be a worn throttle shaft.

A rough idle or stalling. A large vacuum leak can lean the air/fuel mixture out to such an extent that an engine will not idle at all. An EGR valve that is stuck open at idle can have the same effect as a vacuum leak. So too can a loose positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) hose, a leaky PCV valve or the wrong PCV valve (one that flows too much air for the application). If somebody replaced the PCV valve recently, they may have installed the wrong PCV valve. The rough idle in all of these cases is caused by "lean misfire." The fuel mixture is too lean to ignite reliably so it often misfires and fails to ignite at all. Lean misfire will show up as elevated hydrocarbon (HC) readings in the exhaust, which may be enough to cause a vehicle to fail an emissions test.

Hesitation or misfiring when accelerating. This may be due to a vacuum leak, but it can also be caused by dirty fuel injectors, a weak fuel pump (low fuel pressure) or a faulty fuel pressure regulator It can also be caused my ignition misfire due to worn or fouled spark plugs, bad spark plug wires, or weak ignition coil.

The important thing to keep in mind about vacuum leaks is that they have the most noticeable effect at idle. At part and full throttle, more air is entering the engine through the throttle opening so a vacuum leak has less effect on the air/fuel ratio.

FINDING VACUUM LEAKS

Start by visually inspecting all the vacuum hoses and connections. Look for disconnected, loose or cracked hoses, broken fittings or other obvious problems. Also, listen to the engine while it is idling (outdoors only or with proper exhaust ventilation, NEVER indoors!) Vacuum leaks will often make a sucking or whistling noise.

A faster technique for finding vacuum leaks is to get a bottle of propane and attach a length of rubber hose to the gas valve. Open the valve so you have a steady flow of gas. Then hold the hose near suspected leak points while the engine is idling. If there is a leak, propane will be siphoned in through the leak. The resulting "correction" in the engine air/fuel ratio should cause a noticeable change in idle speed and/or smoothness (Note: you may have to temporarily disconnect the idle speed control motor while doing this test). Use caution because propane is highly flammable and can be ignited by a spark or flame.

A "smoke machine" can also be used to find small leaks. A smoke machine feeds artificial smoke into the intake manifold (engine OFF). The smoke may also contain ultraviolet dye to make it more visible when illuminated with UV light. If you see smoke coming out of a hose, fitting, connection, manifold gasket or a crack in the manifold, you have found the leak. Note: Plastic intake manifolds can crack, often in places that are difficult to see. The most vulnerable places are plastic vacuum ports on the manifold.

A less effective method for finding a vacuum leak is to lightly pressurize the intake manifold with about three (3) lbs. of regulated air. Use an adjustable regulator on the air supply and feed air into the intake manifold through a vacuum port. DO NOT use any more pressure than this! Plastic intake manifolds can be easily damaged by excessive pressure. With the engine off and the intake manifold pressurized, spray soapy water on suspected leaks. If you see bubbles, you have found the leak.

Propane can also be used in conjunction with an infrared exhaust analyzer. Vacuum leaks almost always cause carbon monoxide (CO) readings to drop, and fluctuating hydrocarbon (HC) readings in the exhaust. The exhaust analyzer can (1) tell you if there is indeed a leak, and (2) where the leak is using the propane procedure described above. The trick here is to look for a rise in CO and a drop in the HC readings while directing propane at suspected leak points on the engine.

Two types of vacuum leaks can be diagnosed with an exhaust analyzer. The first kind is a general vacuum leak (PCV hose, brake booster, etc.) that leans out the mixture and causes a very low CO reading and only a slightly higher fluctuating HC reading. The O2 reading will also be high. The second kind of vacuum leak is a "point" leak that affects only one or two cylinders (a leaky manifold gasket or a crack or porosity leak in one of the manifold runners). This will be indicated by a normal or low CO reading combined with high fluctuating HC readings. O2 will again be high.

It is important to note that an overly lean idle mixture will also cause a fluctuating HC reading the same as a vacuum leak. To tell one from the other, there is a simple "trick" you can use. Momentarily enrich the idle mixture to 1.5 to 2.0% CO by directing propane into the throttle body. If the engine smooths out and HC drops and remains stable, the problem is a lean idle condition. Check for dirty injectors, low fuel pressure or a defective fuel pressure regulator. If HC still fluctuates, however, the engine is still too lean in one or more cylinders indicating a vacuum leak.

If you suspect a vacuum leak in a particular vacuum circuit, use a hand vacuum pump to isolate the fault by applying vacuum to the hoses and connections until you find the one that does not hold vacuum. On some vehicles, there may be a vacuum reservoir, a small metal canister that holds vacuum. These can sometimes leak.

exhaust gas recirculation valve

EGR CHECKS

The EGR valve should remain CLOSED when the engine is COLD and IDLING. When the engine is warm and is accelerating or working hard under a load, the EGR valve should OPEN. With vacuum-operated EGR valves, intake vacuum pulls the valve open when conditions are right. Some EGR valves also sense exhaust backpressure and do not open until backpressure reaches a certain level. On others, the EGR valve is electronic and is controlled by the PCM. No vacuum is used to operate the valve.

When the EGR valve opens, it allows a small amount of exhaust gas to be siphoned back into the intake manifold. This dilutes the air/fuel mixture, cools combustion and reduces the formation of oxides of nitrogen (NOx). If the EGR valve fails to close when EGR is not required, or if it leaks because of carbon buildup on the valve stem or valve seat, exhaust will be sucked into the intake manifold all the time creating a lean fuel mixture. This will cause lean misfire and set a random misfire code. Cleaning the EGR valve seat and stem may eliminate the sticking problem. If this fails, replace the EGR valve.

On some engines, this kind of problem may not appear until the engine warms up. The EGR valve may remain closed while the engine is cold, but it starts to leak when the engine is warm. This may be due to a weak spring inside the EGR valve. The fix here is to replace the EGR valve.

The operation of the EGR valve can be checked several ways. One is to observe the valve stem (if possible) while goosing the throttle. No movement would indicate a problem with the EGR valve or its vacuum supply. Another is to apply vacuum directly to the EGR valve with a hand pump with the engine running at fast idle. This should pull open the EGR valve and cause a momentary drop in rpm. A third method is to replace the EGR valve and see if that cures the random misfire problem.

compression gauge

COMPRESSION CHECKS

Remove the spark plugs and use a compression tester to check compression. A cranking compression test is done with the ignition disabled and the throttle held open. On most engines, cranking compression should be 140 to 160 pounds per square inch (PSI) or higher in every cylinder. If low, the cylinder may have a burned exhaust valve or leaky head gasket, or weak or broken valve spring. A "wet" compression test can then be performed to determine if the problem is the rings, or the valves or head gasket. Squirt a few drops of oil into the cylinder through the spark plug hole to temporarily seal the rings. Repeat the cranking compression test. If the readings are now higher, the problem is worn rings. If there is no change in the readings, the engine has a valve problem or a leaking head gasket.

Possible causes of low compression include leaking head gasket, burned exhaust valve, bent intake or exhaust valve, weak or broken valve spring, or worn camshaft lobes.

IGNITION CHECKS

Random misfire caused by a loss of spark or a weak spark may be due to fouled spark plugs, plug gap too wide, bad plug wire, weak ignition coil, cracks or carbon tracks in an ignition coil or rotor

Remove and inspect the spark plugs. If oil or carbon fouled, the engine is probably sucking oil past worn valve guides and seals. Replacing the spark plug will only temporarily solve the misfire problem.

If the spark plug is normal, check the plug wire and boot for damage or looseness. Measure resistance end to end. Replace the wire if resistance exceeds specifications (about 50,000 ohms/foot). If the spark plug wire is loose, damaged, burned, chaffed or exceeds resistance specifications, replace it. On coil-on-plug (COP) ignition systems, there is no spark plug wire so inspect the coil sheath for cracks or carbon tracks.

If ignition and compression are both okay, focus next on the injectors. Use a test light or voltmeter to see if the injector is receiving voltage when the key is on, and that the injector solenoid clicks when the injector circuit is grounded. If the injector is functioning electrically, it may be clogged with fuel varnish deposits. If cleaning cannot restore normal fuel delivery, the injector must be replaced.

Misfire in two "paired" cylinders in an engine that has a distributorless ignition system (DIS) would usually tell you the DIS system has a bad coil.

FUEL INJECTION CHECKS

Random misfires can occur if the fuel injectors fail to delivery their normal dose of fuel to the engine. This creates a lean air/fuel mixture and increases the risk of lean misfire. The underlying cause may be dirty fuel injectors (a buildup of varnish deposits in the injector nozzles that may occur over time from using low detergent gasoline or frequent short trip stop-and-go driving), or low fuel pressure caused by a weak fuel pump, defective fuel pressure regulator or dirty fuel filter.

One way to check for dirty injectors is to use a "pressure drop test." This requires a fuel pressure gauge, connecting the gauge to the fuel supply rail and comparing the drop in pressure when each injector is energized for a few seconds with the key on engine off. If an injector shows a significantly lower pressure drop than the others, it is restricted and should be cleaned or replaced.

One quick fix here would be to clean the injectors. A can or two of concentrated fuel injector cleaner added to the fuel tank (follow the product's directions) may remove some or all of the deposits that are restricting fuel delivery. Off-car injector cleaning on a special injector cleaning machine usually gives the best results,

Check fuel pressure. If it is not within specifications, there is a problem that will require further diagnosis. The fault usually be a weak fuel pump, defective fuel pressure regulator or a dirty fuel filter

Don't overlook the possibility of "bad" gasoline. Gasoline contaminated with water or excessive amounts of alcohol will run lean and cause misfires.

Ford locking hubs for 4 wheel drive troubleshooting?

LOCKING HUB PROBLEMS

Automatic hubs can be troublesome. The most common problem is the hub won't engage. Mud, rust or worn parts inside the hub can prevent the mechanism from sliding in and locking the hub. The driver may not notice anything is wrong until he finds himself stuck axle deep in mud and realizes the front wheels aren't doing anything. Or, he may hear some grinding noises when he shifts to four-wheel drive and may think something is wrong with the transfer case or front differential.

For the same reasons that prevent the hub from engaging, a hub may also fail to release. Anything that binds the internal mechanism can prevent it from sliding and releasing. The most noticeable symptoms may be an increase in fuel consumption, drivetrain noise on the highway and/or increased front tire wear.

LOCKING HUB DIAGNOSIS

Diagnosing an automatic hub problem may require test driving the vehicle, or raising a front wheel to see if the hub is engaging and disengaging properly. Put the transmission in park, set the parking brake and raise the chassis so one of the front wheels is off the ground while the other is still on the ground. When the transfer case is in two-wheel drive, the hubs should be released allowing the wheels to turn freely when spun by hand. If the axle shaft turns when you spin the wheel, it means the hub has not disengaged.

To check engagement, rotate the axle shaft backwards. This should lock the hub. Try turning the wheel by hand again. The axle shaft should now turn with the wheel if the hub is locked. If the hub fails to lock, the hub will have to be disassembled and inspected or replaced.

To check release, hold the axle shaft steady and rotate the wheel backwards. You should hear a click as the locking mechanism slides back out and disengages the hub. Rotate the wheel forward again and it should turn freely.

Another way to check the hubs is to raise the vehicle on a frame contact lift so all four wheels are off the ground. Then start the engine and place the transfer case in four-wheel drive and the transmission in drive. If the front wheels don't turn, look at the front axle shafts. If both shafts are turning, but one wheel is not, the problem is a bad hub on the wheel that isn't turning. If the front driveshafts are not turning when the transfer case is in four-wheel drive, the problem is inside the differential (broken side gears) or the transfer case (broken chain, shift linkage, etc.). If the driveshaft between the transfer case and differential is turning, the problem is in the differential. If the driveshaft is not turning, the vehicle is going to need repairs to the transfer case.

4WD HUB MAINTENANCE

Refer to the vehicle owners manual for recommended hub maintenance. For normal driving, the hubs should be cleaned, inspected and lubricated every 2 years or 24,000 to 30,000 miles. For off-road use or driving in hub-deep mud or water, more frequent maintenance is usually reduce the risk of hub trouble.

To service the hub, some disassembly is required. The outer hub cover is usually attached to the hub with five or six Torx screws or a snap ring. Once the cover has been removed, you can loosen and remove the rest of the clips and/or fasteners that attach the hub assembly to the wheel hub. Disassembly and reassembly procedures will vary from one hub design to another, so refer to the OEM service information for the particulars. If you don't have a manual or online service information, disassemble one hub at a time. That way if you can't remember how the parts came apart, you can always refer to the other hub as a guide.

. . .

TIPS ON FORD 4WD LOCKING HUBS

The following information is from Ford service article 95-5-18 and covers the automatic locking hubs on 1983-90 Bronco II, 1983-95 Ford Ranger and 1991-94 Explorer.

Ford says that the automatic locking hubs on these vehicles have an O-ring seal between the hublock and wheel hub to prevent contamination. When the hublock is removed, the 0-ring seal should be checked for damage. If contamination is found in the wheel end, the source of the contamination may be the hublock seal, the wheel bearing seals or the axle spindle seals.

Hub problems may be indicated if a buzzing noise is heard in two-wheel mode shortly after operating in four-wheel drive. This may occur if one of the hublocks fails to disengage. As the vehicle moves forward, the hub that failed to disengage will rotate its axle shaft through the differential and attempt to rotate the other axle shaft in the opposite direction. This is called differential motoring torque. As one axle shaft attempts to turn the other axle shaft through the differential, that shaft's hublock will attempt to engage causing a ratcheting or buzzing noise. (Note: this same kind of noise may also occur if the front differential contains the wrong lubricant. Ford specifies 56 oz. of F1TZ-19580-A or equivalent gear oil.) If the hubs are noisy or are failing to disengage, Ford recommends replacing BOTH locking hubs.

If you hear a popping or banging noise while driving in four-wheel drive, one or both hubs may be slipping or broken.

Ford used Warn Automatic Hublocks Model M350 on Bronco II and Ranger with the Dana 28 Axle from 1983-90 (through build date 10/4/89). Warn Automatic Hublocks Models M350A and M350B were used on the Dana 35 Axle in Bronco II, Explorer and Ranger for 1990-93 (begin build date 10/5/89). Starting with model year 1994, Ford switched to Warn Automatic Hublock Model M350C on Dana 35 Axle in the Explorer and Ranger.

The Model M350 hublocks are black while the Model M350A, M350B and M350C are white/silver in color. The Model M350 can only be replaced by Model M350 service parts. The M350C service kits should be used as replacements for M350A hublocks (released 10/89 as model year 1990 running change), M350B hublocks (released 4/92 as model year 1992 late running change), and M350C hublocks (released 8/93 as model year 1994 Job 1 change).

When automatic hublock servicing is required for any Ranger, Explorer, or Bronco II built from 10/89 through model year 1993, it is advised that both hublocks be replaced.

Ford also says that if an M350A or M350B hublock requires servicing, all the hublock components must be removed and replaced with service kit F3TZ-3B396-B, which is essentially the same service kit for the M350C hublock. The cam assembly of the M350A or M35OB should NOT be used with an M350C automatic hublock body, nor should an M350A or M350B hublock body be used with an M350C cam assembly.

FORD 4WD HUBLOCK REPLACEMENT PROCEDURES

1. Remove old hublock; remove key from bearing retainer nut and then remove nut.

2. If replacing a manual hublock with an automatic hublock, also remove the three-piece wheel bearing nut assembly.

3. Remove the new wheel bearing retaining nut from the cam assembly and install on the threaded spindle.

4. Using Hex Locknut Wrench (T70T-4252-B), torque the wheel bearing retainer nut to 47 N-m (35 lb.ft.) while rotating the wheel assembly. Back nut off 1/4 turn and retighten to 1.8 N-m (16 lb.in.) of torque.

5. Align the scallop of the wheel bearing retaining nut with the center of the spindle keyway by advancing the nut clockwise.

6. Install the retaining key into the spindle keyway. With the garter spring inboard, align the key on the cam assembly with the keyway on the spindle.

7. Firmly press the cam assembly on the wheel bearing retaining nut.

Caution: Do NOT pack the hub with grease. Too much grease will cause improper hublock operation and may damage the hub assembly.

8. For Ranger and Bronco II, model years 1983-90 (through build date 10/4/89), using the DANA 28 Axle, install the thrust washer set onto the axle:

a. First, the plain steel washer.

b. Second, the needle bearing.

c. Last, the spline washer.

9. For model years 1990-94 (begin build date 10/5/89), DANA 35 Axle, install the one-piece spline washer. Install the "C" clip into the axle groove. It may be necessary to push the axle outboard from the inboard side of the knuckle.

10. For 1995 Ranger, install the thrust washer onto the axle:

a. First, the plain steel thrust washer.

b. Second, the plastic unsplined thrust washer.

c. Last, the steel spline thrust washer.

Caution: Make sure the retaining ring or "C" clip is seated properly in the axle groove for steps 8, 9 and 10.

11. Make sure the 0-ring seal on the flange face of the hublock body is not damaged and is properly positioned in its groove.

12. Install the hublock body assembly into the vehicle hub and rotor assembly. The hub may have to be rotated to line up the three (3) prongs of the cam follower (found internally to the hublock) with the cam assembly.

13. Install retainer flat nuts on wheel studs.

Note: Do NOT force the hublock assembly. If the body assembly will not fit, recheck the alignment of all the components.

14. Install speednuts on wheel lugs to retain the hublock.

15. Then install the wheel and torque the lug nuts to 136 N-m (100 LB.FT.).


Thursday, January 27, 2011

Kia v6 timing belt routing diagrams?

See fig below:---

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More diagrams:---
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This figs should help.




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