Saturday, March 5, 2011

how to remove the front hub to replace the half shaft on dodge ram 50?

The complete procedure is as follows:----------
FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS:----

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION



See Figures 1 through 5

  1. Remove the front hub/rotor assembly from the steering knuckle as previously described.
  2. Remove the outer bearing from the hub. Remove the splash shield.
  3. Remove the nuts and bolts that attach the hub to the rotor and separate them. Clean out all of the old grease from the inside of the hub.
  4. The race for the outer bearing may be removed with a brass rod and mallet. Drive the race out from the inside but do not mar the inner surface of the hub.



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Fig. Fig. 1: Front hub and brake rotor disassembly and assembly components-2WD and 4WD models



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Fig. Fig. 2: Using a brass punch, tap out the outer bearing race first, then tap out the inner bearing race.



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Fig. Fig. 3: Press-fit the inner and outer bearing races



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Fig. Fig. 4: Use the same tool to set the inner oil seal into the hub until it is flush with the hub edge



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Fig. Fig. 5: When installing the cotter pin to the knuckle spindle nut, if the slot on the castle nut and the hole in the spindle do not match up, back the nut up a maximum of 30° until a slot does line up


WARNING
Do not remove the bearing races if the same bearing is to be reused after cleaning or repacking. If a bearing is replaced, the race MUST be replaced. Don't use a new bearing on an old race.

  1. Use a seal puller on the back of the hub to remove the inner bearing seal.
  2. Once the outer bearing race is removed, flip the hub assembly over and tap the inner race out using the same procedure as with the outer race.

To install:
  1. Use bearing drivers of the proper size and drive the new races into the hub. Don't try to install the race with the brass rod; chances are high that the race will be crooked or damaged.
  2. Assemble the rotor and front hub. Tighten the nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
  3. Apply wheel bearing grease to the inside of the front hub.
  4. Pack the inner bearing and install to the hub.
  5. Install a new oil seal into the hub so it is flush with the hub end face.
  6. Install the assembly onto the steering knuckle.
  7. Pack and install the outer bearing.
  8. Continue with reinstallation of the hub as outlined previously.

--------------------
THE KNUCKLE AND SPINDLE INSTALLATION:---


REMOVAL & INSTALLATION



2WD /4WD Models

See Figures 1 and 2

  1. Elevate and safely support the vehicle on jackstands.
  2. Remove the wheel from the side of the vehicle to be worked on.
  3. Remove the brake caliper and suspend it from wire out of the way. Do not disconnect or loosen the hose; simply move the whole assembly out of the way. Do not allow the caliper to hang by the hose.


CAUTION
Brake pads and shoes may contain asbestos, which has been determined to be a cancer causing agent. Never clean the brake surfaces with compressed air! Avoid inhaling any dust from brake surfaces! When cleaning brakes, use commercially available brake cleaning fluids.

  1. Remove the small center cap.
  2. Remove the cotter pin, lock cap and spindle nut. Remove the large flat washer and the outer wheel bearing. The flat washer and bearing may also be held in place with a thumb during removal and then separated later.
  3. Pull the brake rotor and hub off the spindle.
  4. Unbolt and remove the round metal splash shield.
  5. Remove the cotter pin and loosen but do not remove the nut on the tie rod end. Use the correct tool to separate the tie rod joint. Remove the tie rod end nut from the tie rod.
  6. Disconnect the shock absorber at its upper mount. Disconnect it at its lower mount and remove the shock absorber.
  7. Install a spring compressor such as MB 990792-01 or its equivalent and compress the spring.
  8. Remove the stabilizer bar retaining bolt (link) from the lower arm.
  9. Remove the cotter pins and loosen the nuts on the upper and lower ball joints. Use the correct puller-MB 990809-01 or its equivalent-to separate the upper and lower joints from the knuckle.



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Fig. Fig. 1: Front steering knuckle components-2WD models



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Fig. Fig. 2: Front steering knuckle components-4WD models

  1. With a floor jack supporting the lower control arm, the spring can be decompressed at this time.
  2. Remove the knuckle and spindle.

To Install:
  1. Install the knuckle in position.
  2. Make certain the spring compressor is correctly installed, then compress the spring again.
  3. Install a new nut on the upper ball joint stud and tighten it to 43-65 ft. lbs. (60-90 Nm). Install a new cotter pin.
  4. Install a new nut on the lower ball joint stud and tighten it to 87-130 ft. lbs. (120-180 Nm). Install a new cotter pin.
  5. Connect the stabilizer bar to the control arm, making certain the spacers and washers are correctly assembled on the bolt. Refer to the sway bar procedures in this section.
  6. Carefully loosen the spring compressor, allowing the spring into place. Make certain that it is correctly seated. When the spring is in place, remove the compressor. Lower the floor jack and remove from under the vehicle.
  7. Install the shock absorber.
  8. Assemble the tie rod to knuckle joint. Use a new nut and tighten it to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
  9. Install the splash shield to the steering knuckle.
  10. Fit the rotor and hub assembly onto the spindle with the bearings and seal in place.
  11. Making certain that the outer bearing is well seated, install the flat washer and the shaft nut. Tighten the nut finger-tight.
  12. Using a torque wrench, tighten the nut to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm), back the nut off to 0 ft. lbs. (0 Nm), then final tighten to 6 ft. lbs. or 72 inch lbs. (8 Nm).
  13. Install the lock cap and cotter pin. If the holes in the lock cap do not align with the castle nut on the shaft, turn the lock cap and try again; the lock cap has offset holes to compensate for this occurrence. In the unlikely event that it still will not align, back off the shaft nut by NO MORE than 30° of rotation (30° is equal to 1 / 2 of a flat side on the nut.).
  14. Clean the outer edge of the small hub cover thoroughly. Coat the flange with 3M 8663 sealant or equivalent and install the small hub cover.
  15. Install the brake caliper and pads. Tighten the front caliper mounting bolts to 58-72 ft. lbs. (80-100 Nm).
  16. Install the wheel and lower the vehicle to the ground.

4WD Models See Figures 2, 3, 4 and 5

  1. Before beginning, place the free-wheeling hub in the free position by placing the transfer lever in the 2H position and moving in reverse for about 3-7 ft. (1-2 m) or by shifting the transfer shifter into the 2H position.



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Fig. Fig. 3: Steering knuckle disassembly and assembly components-4WD models



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Fig. Fig. 4: Tap the knuckle bearing out of the steering knuckle with a brass punch-4WD models



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Fig. Fig. 5: Set the bearing into the rear of the steering knuckle with tools C-4171 and C-4178 or equivalents-4WD models

  1. Raise the vehicle and support it safely on jackstands.
  2. Remove the front wheel(s).
  3. Remove the front brake caliper, pads and adapter. Position them out of the way, suspended from stiff wire; do not let the caliper hang by the hose.


CAUTION
Brake pads and shoes may contain asbestos, which has been determined to be a cancer causing agent. Never clean the brake surfaces with compressed air! Avoid inhaling any dust from brake surfaces! When cleaning brakes, use commercially available brake cleaning fluids.

  1. Remove the front hub and brake rotor assembly, with the inner and outer bearings. Refer to the front hub assembly removal procedures in Manual Transmission .
  2. Support the lower control arm with a jack. Use the correct tools (MB990635-01) to separate the tie rod joint from the knuckle.
  3. Separate the upper and lower ball joints from the knuckle using the correct tools (MB990778-01 for the upper ball joint and MB990809-01 for the lower ball joint). Remember to loosen the nut and separate the joint, then remove the nut.
  4. Once the ball joints have been released, lower the control arm slowly just enough to remove the knuckle.
  5. Remove the steering knuckle.

Oil seal and needle bearing replacement:
  1. Raise and safely support the vehicle on jackstands.
  2. Remove the front wheel(s).
  3. Remove the knuckle assembly following procedures outlined previously in this section.
  4. Remove the oil seal from the back of the knuckle and remove the spacer.
  5. Drive out the needle bearing with a brass punch by tapping uniformly around the housing.


WARNING
Once the needle bearing has been removed, it cannot be reused.

  1. Apply multipurpose grease to the roller surface of the new needle bearing.
  2. Use the correct bearing installation tools (C-4171 and C-4178 or equivalents) to carefully install the bearing until it is flush with the knuckle face. Use care not to insert the bearing too far.
  3. Apply multipurpose grease to the knuckle face of the spacer. Install the spacer to the knuckle so that the chamfered (tapered) side is towards the center of the vehicle.
  4. Use the correct seal driver and install a new oil seal. Tap in the seal until it is flush with the knuckle end face.
  5. Pack multipurpose grease inside the oil seal and lip

Knuckle installation:
  1. Install the knuckle to the ball joint studs. Tighten the lower ball joint nuts to 87-130 ft. lbs. (120-180 Nm). Tighten the upper ball joint nut to 43-65 ft. lbs (60-90 Nm). Install new cotter pins.
  2. Connect the tie rod end to the knuckle. Tighten the nut to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm) and install a new cotter pin.
  3. Refer to Manual Transmission for the hub and rotor assembly installation procedures.
  4. Install the brake caliper and pads. Tighten the brake caliper mounting bolts to 58-72 ft. lbs. (80-100 Nm).
  5. Install the wheel and lower the vehicle to the ground.

------------
THE FRONT SUSPENSION:---

See Figure 1

The Pick-ups came equipped with two different front suspensions depending on whether they were 4-wheel drive or rear wheel drive vehicles. The rear wheel drive Pick-ups combines a double wishbone and coil spring type construction. The components used in this system are upper control arm, lower control arm, coil spring, shock absorber, steering knuckle, strut bar and stabilizer bar.

The 4-wheel drive models use a double wishbone and torsion bar spring construction. The components used with this system are the upper control arm, lower control arm, torsion bar, shock absorber, stabilizer bar, steering knuckle, drive shaft and front differential. Generally, most components have similar procedures and where they differ, it will be noted.



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Fig. Fig. 1: Front suspension components on 2WD and 4WD models






LOWER CONTROL ARM AND BUSHINGS:----

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION



2WD Models

See Figures 1, 2 and 3

  1. Raise the vehicle and support it safely on jackstands.
  2. Remove the wheel from the side of the vehicle in need of repair.
  3. Remove the shock absorber.
  4. Disconnect the sway bar and strut bar from the lower control arm.
  5. Remove the bump stopper and the strut bar from the lower arm.
  6. Install spring compressor tool MB990792 or equivalent to the coil spring and compress the spring.
  7. Remove the cotter pin and loosen lower ball joint nut, but do not remove the nut from the ball joint-this will keep the lower arm from springing open.
  8. Release the lower ball joint taper using tool C-3564-A or equivalent. Remove the lower ball joint nut.
  9. Remove the tool and remove the ball stud from the knuckle.
  10. Pull the arm down and remove the spring (still compressed) with the rubber isolation pad from the vehicle.
  11. Remove the lower arm shaft mounting nuts and remove the arm from the vehicle.

To install:
  1. Install the arm to the crossmember finger-tight. Tighten the two lower arm shaft rear mounting nuts to 7-10 ft. lbs. (9-14 Nm). Install the spring with the rubber isolators. Tighten the compressor so the lower ball joint can be inserted through the knuckle.
  2. Tighten the lower ball joint nut to 87-130 ft. lbs. (120-180 Nm) Install a new cotter pin through the castle nut slot and ball joint stud.
  3. Carefully loosen the spring compressor, making sure the spring seats properly at both ends.



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Fig. Fig. 1: Lower control arm components-2WD models



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Fig. Fig. 2: Remove the shock and install tool MB990792 or equivalent to compress the coil spring slightly-2WD models



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Fig. Fig. 3: Use tool C-3564-A (or equivalent) to disconnect the lower ball joint from the knuckle-2WD models

  1. Remove the spring compressor.
  2. Connect the sway bar and strut bar to the lower control arm-refer to the sway bar procedures in this section.
  3. Install the shock absorber, refer to the shock absorber procedures in this section.
  4. Install the wheel and lower the vehicle.
  5. When the weight of the vehicle is completely on the suspension, bounce it once or twice and tighten the lower control arm to cross-member mounting nut to 40-54 ft. lbs. (55-75 Nm).
  6. Have the front end aligned.

4WD Models See Figures 4, 5 and 6

  1. Raise the vehicle and support it safely on jackstands.
  2. Remove the wheels.
  3. Remove the skid plate.
  4. Remove the anchor arm assembly and the torsion bar-refer to the previous procedures in this section.
  5. Remove the shock absorber lower attaching bolt.
  6. Disconnect the stabilizer bar from the lower control arm.



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Fig. Fig. 4: Lower control arm components-4WD models



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Fig. Fig. 5: Remove the shock absorber lower part, the compress the shock-4WD models



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Fig. Fig. 6: Using tool C3894-A, separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle-4WD models

  1. Remove the cotter pin and the nut from the lower ball stud. Separate the lower ball stud from the steering knuckle using a suitable separating tool such as C3894-A or equivalent.
  2. Remove the pivot bolts and remove the arm from the vehicle.

To Install:
  1. Install the lower control arm to the vehicle.
  2. Install the pivot bolts, but do not tighten beyond snug.
  3. Insert the ball stud into the steering knuckle. Install the nut, tighten to 87-130 ft. lbs. (120-180 Nm) and install a new cotter pin.
  4. Attach the stabilizer bar to the control arm and install the shock mount bolts-refer to the procedures in this section.
  5. Install the torsion bar and turn the adjustment nut (anchor mount nut) clockwise to apply a load to the bar-refer to the procedures in this section.
  6. Install the wheel. Lower the vehicle so the weight of the vehicle is completely on the suspension.
  7. Bounce the suspension once or twice. Tighten the pivot nuts to 101-116 ft. lbs. (140-160 Nm).
  8. Set the ride height. Refer to the torsion bar procedure in this section.
  9. Align the front end.

CONTROL ARM BUSHING REPLACEMENT 2WD Models



  1. Once the lower control arm is removed from the vehicle, the bushings can be removed from the control arm. Pull or pry the bushings out of each side of the control arm.
  2. Push the new bushings into the arm in the same positions as the old bushings. Make sure the bushings are installed all the way into the arm.

4WD Models See Figures 7 and 8

  1. Using the special tool MB990958-01, remove the bushing from the rear frame bracket.

When removing the left-hand bushing, detach the differential carrier-refer toManual Transmission .

  1. Using the same special tool, press the new bushing into the frame bracket.
  2. Remove the bushing from the lower control arm by using the tool MB990883-01.
  3. Coat the bushing and the lower control arm with soap solution and press the new bushing into the lower control arm by using the same special tools. Take care not to twist or tilt the bushing.



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Fig. Fig. 7: Remove the frame bracket lower control arm bushings with tool MB990958-01-4WD models



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Fig. Fig. 8: Use the same tool to install the new bushings to the frame bracket-4WD models

Press the bushing again from the opposite side to equalize bushing projections at both ends.





WHEEL ALINEMENT:---

If the tires are worn unevenly, if the vehicle is not stable on the highway or if the handling seems uneven in spirited driving, the wheel alignment should be checked. If an alignment problem is suspected, first check for improper tire inflation and other possible causes. These can be worn suspension or steering components, accident damage or even unmatched tires. If any worn or damaged components are found, they must be replaced before the wheels can be properly aligned. Wheel alignment requires very expensive equipment and involves minute adjustments which must be accurate; it should only be performed by a trained technician. Take your vehicle to a properly equipped shop.

Following is a description of the alignment angles which are adjustable on most vehicles and how they affect vehicle handling. Although these angles can apply to both the front and rear wheels, usually only the front suspension is adjustable.

CASTER



See Figure 1

Looking at a vehicle from the side, caster angle describes the steering axis rather than a wheel angle. The steering knuckle is attached to a control arm or strut at the top and a control arm at the bottom. The wheel pivots around the line between these points to steer the vehicle. When the upper point is tilted back, this is described as positive caster. Having a positive caster tends to make the wheels self-centering, increasing directional stability. Excessive positive caster makes the wheels hard to steer, while an uneven caster will cause a pull to one side. Overloading the vehicle or sagging rear springs will affect caster, as will raising the rear of the vehicle. If the rear of the vehicle is lower than normal, the caster becomes more positive.



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Fig. Fig. 1: Caster affects straight-line stability. Caster wheels used on shopping carts, for example, employ positive caster

CAMBER



See Figure 2

Looking from the front of the vehicle, camber is the inward or outward tilt of the top of wheels. When the tops of the wheels are tilted in, this is negative camber; if they are tilted out, it is positive. In a turn, a slight amount of negative camber helps maximize contact of the tire with the road. However, too much negative camber compromises straight-line stability, increases bump steer and torque steer.



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Fig. Fig. 2: Camber influences tire contact with the road

TOE



See Figure 3

Looking down at the wheels from above the vehicle, toe angle is the distance between the front of the wheels, relative to the distance between the back of the wheels. If the wheels are closer at the front, they are said to be toed-in or to have negative toe. A small amount of negative toe enhances directional stability and provides a smoother ride on the highway.



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Fig. Fig. 3: With toe-in, the distance between the wheels is closer at the front than at the rear



FRONT AND REAR WHEEL:----

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION



See Figures 1 and 2

  1. Park the vehicle on a level surface.
  2. Remove the jack, tire iron and, if necessary, the spare tire from their storage compartments.
  3. Check the owner's manual or refer to General Information And Maintenance of this repair guide for the jacking points on your vehicle. Then, place the jack in the proper position.
  4. If equipped with lug nut trim caps, remove them by either unscrewing or pulling them off the lug nuts, as appropriate. Consult the owner's manual, if necessary.
  5. If equipped with a wheel cover or hub cap, insert the tapered end of the tire iron in the groove and pry off the cover.
  6. Apply the parking brake and block the diagonally opposite wheel with a wheel chock or two.

Wheel chocks may be purchased at your local auto parts store, or a block of wood cut into wedges may be used. If possible, keep one or two of the chocks in your tire storage compartment, in case any of the tires has to be removed on the side of the road.

  1. If equipped with an automatic transmission/transaxle, place the selector lever in P or Park; with a manual transmission/transaxle, place the shifter in Reverse.
  2. With the tires still on the ground, use the tire iron/wrench to break the lug nuts loose.

If a nut is stuck, never use heat to loosen it or damage to the wheel and bearings may occur. If the nuts are seized, one or two heavy hammer blows directly on the end of the bolt usually loosens the rust. Be careful, as continued pounding will likely damage the brake drum or rotor.

  1. Using the jack, raise the vehicle until the tire is clear of the ground. Support the vehicle safely using jackstands.
  2. Remove the lug nuts, then remove the tire and wheel assembly.

To install:
  1. Make sure the wheel and hub mating surfaces, as well as the wheel lug studs, are clean and free of all foreign material. Always remove rust from the wheel mounting surface and the brake rotor or drum. Failure to do so may cause the lug nuts to loosen in service.
  2. Install the tire and wheel assembly and hand-tighten the lug nuts.
  3. Using the tire wrench, tighten all the lug nuts, in a crisscross pattern, until they are snug.
  4. Raise the vehicle and withdraw the jackstand, then lower the vehicle.



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Fig. Fig. 1: Wheel and tire assembly removal and installation



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Fig. Fig. 2: Typical wheel lug tightening sequence


WARNING
Do not overtighten the lug nuts, as this may cause the wheel studs to stretch or the brake disc (rotor) to wrap.

  1. If so equipped, install the wheel cover or hub cap. Make sure the valve stem protrudes through the proper opening before tapping the wheel cover into position.
  2. If equipped, install the lug nut trim caps by pushing them or screwing them on, as applicable.
  3. Remove the jack from under the vehicle, and place the jack and tire iron/wrench in their storage compartments. Remove the wheel chock(s).
  4. If you have removed a flat or damaged tire, place it in the storage compartment of the vehicle and take it to your local repair station to have it fixed or replaced as soon as possible.

INSPECTION



Inspect the tires for lacerations, puncture marks, nails and other sharp objects. Repair or replace as necessary. Also check the tires for treadwear and air pressure as outlined in General Information And Maintenance of this repair guide.

Check the wheel assemblies for dents, cracks, rust and metal fatigue. Repair or replace as necessary.



WHEEL LUG NUTS;----

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION



With Disc Brakes

See Figures 1, 2 and 3

  1. Raise and support the appropriate end of the vehicle safely using jackstands, then remove the wheel.
  2. Remove the brake pads and caliper. Support the caliper aside using wire or a coat hanger. For details, please refer to Brake Operating Systemof this repair guide.
  3. Remove the outer wheel bearing and lift off the rotor. For details on wheel bearing removal, installation and adjustment, please refer toGeneral Information And Maintenance of this repair guide.
  4. Properly support the rotor using press bars, then drive the stud out using an arbor press.



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Fig. Fig. 1: View of the rotor and stud assembly



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Fig. Fig. 2: Pressing the stud from the rotor



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Fig. Fig. 3: Use a press to install the stud into the rotor

If a press is not available, CAREFULLY drive the old stud out using a blunt drift. MAKE SURE the rotor is properly and evenly supported or it may be damaged.

To install:
  1. Clean the stud hole with a wire brush and start the new stud with a hammer and drift pin. Do not use any lubricant or thread sealer.
  2. Finish installing the stud with the press.

If a press is not available, start the lug stud through the bore in the hub, then position about 4 flat washers over the stud and thread the lug nut. Hold the hub/rotor while tightening the lug nut, and the stud should be drawn into position. MAKE SURE THE STUD IS FULLY SEATED, then remove the lug nut and washers.

  1. Install the rotor and adjust the wheel bearings.
  2. Install the brake caliper and pads.
  3. Install the wheel, then remove the jackstands and carefully lower the vehicle.
  4. Tighten the lug nuts to the proper torque.

With Drum Brakes See Figures 4, 5 and 6

  1. Raise the vehicle and safely support it with jackstands, then remove the wheel.
  2. Remove the brake drum.
  3. If necessary to provide clearance, remove the brake shoes, as outlined inBrake Operating System of this repair guide.
  4. Using a large C-clamp and socket, press the stud from the axle flange.
  5. Coat the serrated part of the stud with liquid soap and place it into the hole.

To install:
  1. Position about 4 flat washers over the stud and thread the lug nut. Hold the flange while tightening the lug nut, and the stud should be drawn into position. MAKE SURE THE STUD IS FULLY SEATED, then remove the lug nut and washers.
  2. If applicable, install the brake shoes.
  3. Install the brake drum.
  4. Install the wheel, then remove the jackstands and carefully lower the vehicle.
  5. Tighten the lug nuts to the proper torque.



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Fig. Fig. 4: Exploded view of the drum, axle flange and stud



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Fig. Fig. 5: Use a C-clamp and socket to press out the stud



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Fig. Fig. 6: Force the stud onto the axle flange using washers and a lug nut





STEERING LINKAGE:---

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION



See Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4

Whenever the steering linkage components are separated, always discard any removed cotter pins and replace with new ones.



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Fig. Fig. 1: Steering linkage components and torque values for 1979-91 2WD models



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Fig. Fig. 2: Steering linkage components and torque values for 1983-91 4WD models



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Fig. Fig. 3: Steering linkage components and torque values for 1992-93 vehicles



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Fig. Fig. 4: The fork-type joint separator will be needed for removal of some of the front steering components

Pitman Arm See Figures 5, 6, 7 and 8

It is possible to remove the Pitman arm with the steering box on the vehicle. The job is much easier if the steering gearbox is removed.

  1. Elevate and safely support the vehicle on jackstands.
  2. Remove the left front wheel.
  3. Remove the cotter pin and castle nut holding the Pitman arm to the relay rod. Discard the cotter pin.
  4. Use a screw-type joint separator to pull the relay rod off the Pitman arm joint. Do not hammer on the joint and do not use a fork-type separator.



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Fig. Fig. 5: The pitman arm is attached to the steering gear box-manual steering box shown



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Fig. Fig. 6: Disconnect the pitman arm from the relay rod using C-3894-A or equivalent



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Fig. Fig. 7: Place the gear box in a vise, then use a puller to remove the pitman arm arm from the box



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Fig. Fig. 8: Install the pitman arm to the gear box with the mating marks aligned

  1. Remove the locknut and washer from the bottom of the steering gearbox.

Place mating marks on the pitman arm and steering gear box shaft.

  1. Using a Pitman arm puller (MB 990809-01, CT-1106 or equivalent), remove the arm from the steering box.

To install:
  1. When installing the arm, note that there are matchmarks on both the arm and the gearbox output shaft. These marks MUST be aligned at reinstallation.
  2. Install the locknut and washer to the steering pump shaft. Tighten the nut to 190 ft. lbs. (140 Nm).
  3. Fit the Pitman arm to the relay rod joint. Use a new boot. Install a new castle nut, tightening it to 25-33 ft. lbs. (35-45 Nm). Install a new cotter pin.
  4. Install the left wheel. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
  5. Have the front alignment checked and adjusted by a reputable repair facility.

Idler Arm

  1. Elevate and safely support the vehicle on stands.
  2. Remove the front wheels.
  3. Remove the cotter pin and the castle nut holding the relay rod to the idler arm.
  4. Use a screw-type joint separator to split the ball joint at the relay rod.
  5. Remove the nut holding the idler arm to its pivot. Remove the arm, noting the placement of the spacers, washers and the plastic bushings. Alternatively, the idler arm pivot may be unbolted from the vehicle and the arm disassembled on the workbench.

To Install
  1. Remove the dust cover and O-ring from the end of the tie rod. Apply grease (Multipurpose grease SAE J310, NLGI No. 2) to the lip portion of the dust cover and inside the cover. Apply 3M Part No. 8663 or the equivalent to the dust cover installation surface, then press it in.
  2. Apply grease to the inside surface of the bushing and the idler arm support shaft. Insert the bushing into the idler arm, then insert the idler arm support into the idler arm. Insert so that the knurled surface of the washer is facing the bushing side. Tighten the self locking nut to 36 ft. lbs. (50 Nm).
  3. If the entire pivot and bracket was removed, tighten the mounting bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm).
  4. Connect the idler arm to the relay rod and install the nut on the ball stud. Tighten the nut to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm); install a new cotter pin.
  5. Lubricate the front end components.
  6. Install the wheels and lower the vehicle to the ground.
  7. Have the front alignment checked and adjusted by a reputable repair facility.

Center Link

Sometimes this component is referred to as a Relay Rod.

  1. Disconnect the tie-rod ends from the relay rod on each side.
  2. Disconnect the relay rod at the Pitman arm, using a screw-type puller to separate the joint.
  3. Position a jack or jackstand under the relay rod at the Pitman arm to support it; allowing the linkage to hang free may damage one of the joints.
  4. Disconnect the relay rod from the idler arm.
  5. Remove the linkage assembly from the vehicle.
  6. Individual pieces of the linkage may be separated on the workbench. Do not reuse any dust cover, O-ring or cotter pin.

To install:
  1. Reassemble the linkage and position it under the vehicle, using the jack to assist you.
  2. Install the joint to the idler arm first, then connect the Pitman arm joint and install the tie rod ends to the knuckle. Each castellated nut should be tightened to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm) and be secured with a new cotter pin.
  3. Lubricate the front end steering components.

Tie Rod Ends See Figures 9 through 18

  1. Raise the vehicle and support it safely on jackstands.
  2. Remove the wheel on the same side as the tie rod end which needs to be replaced.
  3. Place matchmarks on the tie rod end mating surfaces.
  4. Remove the cotter pin from the tie rod end. Loosen, but do not remove, the nut on the tie rod.
  5. Use a fork-type tie rod separator, remove the tie rod from the steering knuckle. Remove the nut and pull the outer tie rod out of the knuckle. Use a screw-type joint separator to remove the inner tie rod end from the relay rod (center link).
  6. Loosen the sleeve clamp nut, if equipped, and unscrew the tie rod end from the sleeve or inner tie rod. Count the number of turns required to remove the end, or measure, before removal, the amount of threads protruding from the sleeve. Do the same for the inner tie rod end.



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Fig. Fig. 9: Matchmark the position of the tie rod on the threads



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Fig. Fig. 10: Remove the cotter pin and discard. NEVER reuse a cotter pin



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Fig. Fig. 11: Loosen but do not remove the castellated nut



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Fig. Fig. 12: Place a puller into position on the tie rod



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Fig. Fig. 13: then separate the tie rod from the steering knuckle



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Fig. Fig. 14: Counting the number of turns, remove the tie rod end from the sleeve



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Fig. Fig. 15: Tie rod end measurements for reassembly-1979-82 models



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Fig. Fig. 16: Tie rod end measurements for reassembly-1983-91 models



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Fig. Fig. 17: Tie rod end measurements for reassembly-1992-93 models



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Fig. Fig. 18: When installing a new cotter pin make sure to bend the tabs over as shown to secure

  1. If both ends of the tie rod were removed, there is a third way to measure the correct location of the tie rods. Install the tie rods into the sleeve and continue to tighten until the distance between the centers of each tie rod end is equal to the following dimensions:

    1979-82 Rear wheel drive vehicles Left-14.74-14.82 in. (374.0-377.0)
    1979-82 Rear wheel drive vehicles Right-14.80-14.88 in. (376.0-378.0mm)
    1983-91 Rear wheel drive models-14.8-14.9 in. (37.6-37.8cm)
    1992-93 Rear wheel drive models-11.988-12.067 in. (30.45-30.65cm)
    1983-93 4-wheel drive models-10.9-11.0 in. (27.7-27.9cm)

  2. Install the new end and turn it in the same number of turns or until the same amount of threads is left protruding from the sleeve. This will approximate the original setting.
  3. Install the tie rod joint to the knuckle. Tighten the nut to 25-33 ft. lbs. (35-45 Nm). Install a new cotter pin.
  4. Install the inner tie rod end to the relay rod, then tighten to the castle nut to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm). Install a new cotter pin.
  5. Lubricate the front end.
  6. Install the wheels and lower the vehicle to the ground.
  7. Have the front alignment checked and adjusted by a reputable repair facility.



STEERING WHEEL:----

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION



See Figures 1 through 6

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery.
  2. Pull off the horn cover at the center of the wheel by grasping the upper edge with your fingers to release it. On some models the pad is screwed on from behind the wheel. Disconnect the horn wire.
  3. Matchmark the relationship between the wheel and shaft. Remove the steering wheel retaining nut.



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Fig. Fig. 1: Remove the retaining screws . . .



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Fig. Fig. 2: . . . then remove the horn pad



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Fig. Fig. 3: On some pads, first remove the screw, then remove the pad in the direction of the arrow



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Fig. Fig. 4: Loosen the steering wheel retaining nut



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Fig. Fig. 5: Matchmark the wheel and shaft for alignment



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Fig. Fig. 6: Use a puller to remove the steering wheel from the steering column

To install:
  1. Screw the two bolts of a steering wheel puller into the wheel. Turn the bolt at the center of the puller to force the wheel off the steering shaft. Do not pound on the wheel to remove it, or the collapsible steering shaft may be damaged.
  2. Install the wheel and push it onto the shaft splines by hand far enough to start the retaining nut.
  3. Install the retaining nut and tighten to 25-33 ft. lbs. (34-44 Nm).
  4. Connect the horn wire and reinstall the horn pad. If it is the snap on type, make sure all the clips are engaged.
  5. Connect the negative cable to the battery.

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