Tuesday, May 31, 2011

2000 CHEV 1500 5.3 fuel pump wiring diagram?

graphic


you said the ECM B fuse is good , now check for power at the Grey wire ( at the fuel pump connector) you need someone to turn the ignition switch on while you check for power, the ECM will only power the pump for TWO seconds.. then shuts off power to the pump unless it sees ignition reference pulses. If your test light turns on for 2 second then goes out, change the pump . If the pump is already replaced, then also re confirm that pump is new and not after market pump.In some cases after market fuel pump are the cause of problem.So get OEM fuel pump.
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Ok , let's see if the relay is being triggered.
place your finger on top of the relay and have someone turn the ignition on, you should feel the relay click. if it does, the the problem lies between the relay and the fuel pump connector (open wire). if it doesn't click and the ECM b fuse is good, then one of two things.
#1 check the ground wire to the engine block behind the power steering pump.( that's the relay ground)
#2 check signal voltage from the computer( ecu/pcm) to the relay,
by probing the prong where the relay goes in , one of them should have power for two seconds when the ignition is turned on. If no power then faulty ( ecu/pcm).
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Also check for 12v at the PCM.If no 12 volt PCM is the issue.The pcm and ecu are name of one and the same module.
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There's a ground strap that attaches to the frame and a ground wire that goes to the filler neck.
Also it can be blown VCM/PCM 20 Amp fuse. If I read the wiring diagram correct, the PCM actually supplies power to the fuel pump relay so since it was blown, no power to the relay or the pump.-------------
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Also you try temporarily bypass the ground to a different location and check.If the actual ground connection is rusted it can cause problems.


Hotpoint refrigerator troubleshooting?

Before replacing the auger motor, it needs to be determined if the auger motor or the core board is the problem. You will need a volt/ohm meter that reads DC voltage. I'm sending you some pictures of how to access the dispenser, the location of the components and how to remove the auger motor if necessary. First you will need to make some voltage checks at the core board. Press the actuator and check between the blue and white wires for 120 volts AC. If there is no voltage there, replace the core board. If it has voltage, next check the BR/WH and RD/WH wires to ground. This will be DC voltage. On cubes the BR/WH wire should be positive (+) 120 VDC and the RD/WH wire negative (-) 120 VDC. When set to crushed the + and - will be reversed on the wires. If you don't get these readings, the cord board will again need to be reversed. If you do get these voltages but the auger motor does not run, then the motor will need to be replaced.

see fig below:---



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Driver side power seat troubleshooting for 2001 lincoln ls v8?

Principles of Operation
Driver Power Seat The driver power seat is controlled by the driver seat module (DSM). The DSM does not need to be configured, however the drive seat does need to be calibrated when the DSM is installed. The driver seat regulator control switch provides voltage to the DSM when activated. The neutral position of each driver seat regulator control switch position is a ground state through the seat regulator control switch contacts. A voltage input causes the DSM to power the appropriate motor until the input is removed. Ground is the normal state of the motor circuits through the DSM and is not switched to control the motors. The DSM internally switches the appropriate line from ground to power to adjust the motors.
As the seat is adjusted, the DSM constantly monitors the motor position sensors to record the current seat position. The DSM will remove power from the motor upon termination of the seat regulator control switch input or if the DSM does not see movement from the motor by monitoring the position sensor. The DSM must be calibrated to the seat track it is controlling. For additional information, refer to Seat Calibration. Once the DSM is calibrated to the seat track, it will only allow movement within the calibrated range.
Seat Calibration The DSM is calibrated using a scan tool. The calibration procedure automatically powers the driver power seat through its full range of motion and records the full stop positions by monitoring the motor position sensors. Once the full stop positions or range of the seat have been recorded, the DSM will only operate within the calibrated range. Any input attempting to drive the seat beyond the calibrated range will be ignored. This calibration is used for all seat control functions including manual switch control and memory recall positioning. During the seat calibration, the DSM may identify a function that is inoperative, such as a position sensor not changing. If the DSM identifies a concern that has a related diagnostic trouble code (DTC), the DSM will set the related DTC at the end of the validation procedure.
The calibration procedure powers the seat track adjustments to the end of their travel, which is determined by the DSM seeing a change of state in the motor position sensors. If there is a concern with the seat track or motor position sensor that limits the travel, the DSM will interpret the stopping point as the end of travel and store the position. The DSM is not able to determine if the seat has moved to its full travel position. It is only capable of monitoring and storing the amount of travel seen by the position sensor changing states.
For additional information on carrying out the power seat calibration procedure, refer to the scan tool operating manual.
Memory Seat Memory seat positioning can be recalled with the memory switches on the driver door panel or a programmed remote keyless entry transmitter. In either case, the DSM receives a memory recall 1 or 2 command from the driver door module (DDM) over the SCP communication network. The memory recall switches are a hardwired input to the DDM. The DDM also receives the remote keyless entry transmitter signals. Once a valid memory recall command is received from the DDM, the DSM moves the drivers seat to the position stored in memory by powering the appropriate motors and monitoring the motor position sensors until the position is reached.
Easy Exit/Easy Entry The easy exit function moves the seat backwards about two inches when the ignition key is removed from the ignition switch. The DSM receives a key out command over the SCP communication network and powers the driver seat rearward. This function will not operate if the seat is less than the travel distance to the end of the track, or the function has been deactivated at the message center driver personality settings. The DSM will also cancel this operation if a valid input command is received, such as the seat regulator control switch or memory recall request.
The DSM will record the current seat position before powering the seat for a easy exit function. This recorded position will be used to return the seat to this position on the easy entry operation. During easy entry operation, the seat is returned to the position previous to the easy exit operation. Easy entry operation will be cancelled if a valid input command is received by the DSM.
Passenger Power Seat The passenger power seat motors are hardwired to the passenger seat regulator control switch. The circuits are normally at ground through the seat regulator control switch. The individual circuit is switched to power when the specific adjustment position is selected.
Heated Seats The driver and passenger heated seats share a common battery and ignition feed. A separate shared ignition source supplies the heated seat switches. When the heated seat switch is pressed with the ignition switch in RUN, a momentary voltage signal is sent to the heated seat module. The heated seat module then supplies power to the heating element circuit. The cushion element and seat backrest element are wired in series and powered by the same output. The heated seat module also will ground the separate indicator circuit at the heated seat switch to indicate an ON state. The heated seat module will remain on until the heated seat switch is pressed and a momentary voltage signal is received, or until 10 minutes expire. If the ignition source is removed from the module, the heated seat module will enter an off state and will not return to ON until the switch is once again pressed with the ignition switch in RUN. The heated seat module is designed to heat the seat to 37.5°C (99.5°F) and maintain the temperature until time-out or switched off. This temperature is maintained by the heated seat module monitoring the temperature sensor located in the seat cushion element, and adjusting the current flow to the heating elements.
Inspection and Verification
  1. Verify the customer concern by operating the system.
  1. Visually inspect for obvious signs of mechanical or electrical damage.

    Visual Inspection Chart Mechanical Electrical
    • Front seat track motors.
    • Front seat track binding or obstructed.
    • Front seat backrest power recline.
    • Lumbar motor.
    • BJB Fuses 411 (15A), 421 (20A), 425 (40A), 428 (20A)
    • CJB Fuses 205 (5A), 216 (5A), 207 (5A)
    • Seat regulator control switch.
    • Memory set switch.
    • Lumbar seat control switch.

front bearing starving for oil on Mitsubishi 4d56 motor?

If the engine has an overhead cam, the resulting misalignment in the cam bores created by the warpage can gall or seize the cam bearings, or even break the cam. Anytime you encounter a warped or cracked aluminum head, or an OHC head with a seized cam, chances are the damage was caused by overheating.

Oil starvation is almost always fatal to any engine, and is usually the result of a failed oil pump, a plugged oil pickup screen inside the oil pan, or a low oil level. Bearings that have been damaged as a result of insufficient lubrication will be shiny and worn where the crankshaft journal wiped away the bearing material.

Overhead cam engines are even more vulnerable to oil starvation and low oil pressure problems than pushrod engines because the cam and valvetrain are farther from the pump. When an OHC engine is first started, it takes awhile for oil pressure to reach the cam bearings. If the oil viscosity is too heavy (especially during cold weather), it may delay the arrival of oil long enough to starve and seize the cam. For this reason, most vehicle manufacturers recommend using a 5W-30 oil in late model OHC engines year round, but especially during cold weather. Refilling the crankcase with the recommended viscosity oil can prevent a reoccurrance of this type of failure.

If you suspect engine damage may have been caused by a low oil level, check the dipstick to see how much oil is in the pan. A low oil level may be the result of neglect, oil leakage and/or oil burning.

Any evidence of oil leakage around the front or rear crankshaft seal, pan gasket, valve cover gasket or other gaskets, would tell you new gaskets and seals are needed. Most of these gaskets and seals will have to be replaced anyway if you are opening up the engine.

Bearings ruined by dirty oil will have foreign material embedded in the surface and/or be scored by debris. Check for a plugged oil filter and/or a missing air filter or oil filler or breather cap. The underlying cause here may be not changing the oil often enough.


  • Misalignment. If the center main bearings show much greater wear than the end bearings, the crankshaft may be bent or the main bores may be misaligned. The underlying condition must be corrected by straightening or replacing the crank and/or align boring the block. The same applies to camshafts and cam bearings (pushrod & OHC).
  • Failure to lubricate parts properly during engine assembly. Camshaft lobes require a high pressure engine assembly lube that will stay put until the engine is started and oil reaches the cam. Bearings and cylinders also need to be coated with oil or assembly lube to prevent a dry start.

Murray hydro drive mower manual?

Click the link below:---
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Murray hydro drive mower troubleshooting:---

How to replace drive belt:---
the drive belts on Murray's 13 hp horsepower tractors can be replaced by users with no hand tools and only a minimal amount of technical savvy.
  • Park the tractor on a level surface. Set the parking brake and remove the key from the ignition. Study the belt replacement guide decal located underneath the left foot board for proper belt routing instructions.

  • Remove the mowing deck by first moving the attachment clutch lever to the disengaged position (toward you). Move the attachment lift lever all the way forward to lower the mower housing to its down position.

  • Crawl beneath the tractor and roll the drive belt off engine pulley (it hangs directly beneath the engine). Remove small retainer clip that holds the clutch spring to the pulley bolt located at the center of the mowing deck. Remove the large retainer springs (two of them), then slide the belt collar away from the mower housing and off the housing bracket.

  • Disconnect the anti-sway bar rods from the chassis brackets by removing the retaining cotter pins. Disconnect front links from the mower deck by removing retaining cotter pins. Disconnect the suspension arms from the rear mower deck brackets by removing the two cotter pins.

  • Move the attachment lift lever all the way to the forward position to raise the mower suspension arms to the full up position. Slide the mower deck out from beneath the tractor.

  • Crawl beneath the tractor and roll the drive belt off of the stationary idler pulley and the clutching idler pulley. They are both located immediately adjacent to the engine pulley. Be sure the belt is already away from the engine pulley, as well.

  • Push the drive belt slack toward the rear of tractor. Remove the drive belt from the trans axle pulley by taking it over the trans axle pulley while compressing the movable belt keepers surrounding it. Remove the old belt from the tractor by pushing it clear of the center span keeper (located beneath the trans axle pulley).

  • Install a new drive belt by following the reverse of the instructions for removal. Test the tractor and mower for normal operation.


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    Click this link for basic parts disassembly manual:---

    http://www.outdoordistributors.com/pdf/Murray/MURRAY-MODEL-42910A-LAWN-TRACTOR-(1996)-PARTS-LIST.pdf


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    to order hydro dive belt for your mower click here:---

    http://mowershoponline.com.au/murray-belt-37x61-hydro-drive-p-212.html

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  • Check engine light is ON?

    2004 Dodge Stratus check engine light is ON.
    There is code stored in your vehicles computer.Just get your vehicle scanned.In scanning you will retrieve codes.The codes will pointy towards faulty part causing the check engine light to come ON.The problem can be major or minor.It all depends upon the error code which you receive.In most of the scan center its free to get car scanned to retrieve codes.---
    click the link below to diagnose the error code on your vehicle:---
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    At autozone.com its free to get car scanned.-------
    If you require car parts to solve your problem.Then click the link below to get car parts in discount as well as good service.

    how to replace AT Filter on Nissan Terrano?

    The Terrano has a powerful 2.7 Litre Turbo Diesel engine which gives you on avarage 8.5Km/l. My best was 9.2Km/l.

    Here is some useful links:


    Replacement parts - prevent buying from the rip-off dealersclick here
    How to replace the pollen filter on your Terranoclick here
    Fit extra fan on top of intercoolerclick here
    Fit oil trap to filter breather fumesclick here
    Where to store your extra fanbeltsclick here
    Towbar modification, get an extra 90mm heightclick here
    What diesel to use

    Nissan Terrano 2.7 TDi:--

    Replacing the pollen filter of your Nissan Terrano:

    When the air flow in the cabin decrease the problem might be that the pollen filter of your Nissan Terrano is blocked. This is rather easy to replace. If you stay in South Africa you can take your filter to places like Filter World in Paul Kruger street, Pretoria (012-323-5120).

    The filter is located behind the glove compartment. To replace it first remove the glove compartment. It has two screws at the bottom of the door.

    On my model you also have to remove the little panel on the left of the glove box because one of the screws for the cross bar are located underneath it.
    Now you can remove the steel cross bar by unscrewing the three screws that attach it.
    You will note that the big black plastic container behind it has a little vertical slide in it. The pollen filter is located behind this slide. So you have undo the screw at the bottom of the slide and then slide it open by pulling it downwards
    The pollen filter is behind the slide. Just pull it out and push in the new one. You will see that it can only go in one way. There is a little rib on the one end of the filter that must slide into a slot in the filter holder. After that you can replace everything in reversed order.




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    Anyone know how to get access to the oil filter on a Terrano II 2.7TDI. I can't see a way to get to it without removing major parts such a exhaust.

    If it's like most other Nissans, you get to it from underneath - Jack it upand put it on axel stands.

    You may need to remove the splash tray from under the engine, then slide under - cover the exhaust, as most Nissans I know have the filter above the exhaust.

    A removal tool is recommended in tight spots.

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    Yes the fuel filter is easy to change, your local motor spares will have a catalogue telling them which filter to sell you, BUT, its a diesel, so you need to know how to bleed it. Bleeding is when you get all the air out of the system, air gets into the fuel lines when you remove the filter, and a diesel wont run with air in the system, so you have to get it out. You can make this a much easier process by filling the filter with diesel before installing it. Some motors need you to loosen a fitting here and there to allow the air out while pumping the fuel.


    Your fuel filter should (could/might) have a drain at the bottom. If you open this and drain the filter, you should get rid of the water. You may also have a pre-filter or sedimenter in the fuel line closer to the tank.
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    To Order car parts online:-- click the link below:--get good discount on parts ordered.

    http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2011/05/from-where-to-order-car-parts-online.html

    Honda VF700S head shakes on deceleration?

    First check steering bearings -- you know, by jacking up the front end and grabbing the fork to feel for play.
    Sooner or later, all the larger late model Hondas and Yamahas develop a problem with the steering bearings that results in a head shake when decelerating from 40 mph and less. For want of a better term, we'll call it a "deceleration wobble."

    The cause
    There is a rule in motorcycle suspension technology which says that problems in handling that occur under 40 mph are due to defects in front of the steering head, while those occuring at higher speeds are found in causes aft of the steering. It's a tried and true rule of thumb, and a decel wobble obeys the pattern. Many things can cause weaves and wobbles, whether on acceleration or deceleration -- tire wear is especially critical. But decel wobbles have their own special causes, and if the front tire isn't excessively worn or the wheel badly out of balance, the cause is almost always the steering bearings. But we're not talking looseness. We're talking about something that is not addressed in any service manuals, factory or aftermarket. Whether because the frame is made of softer material or what, the steering bearing races "walk" in the frame. That is, they shift in their recesses and become out of square with the steering stem, and out of parallel with each other.
    see fig below:---














    Modern motorcycle steering bearings tend to "worry" -- shift back and forth -- in their frames, especially on the heavier bikes. The resulting non-parallelness sets up torque forces in the steering which manifest themselves as attempts by the fork to correct itself, with the result: shimmy, shimmy. Again, the problem isn't looseness. Mere tightening fails to correct the problem.

    The following procedure is one circulated by Honda's District Service Representatives. It is based on the above premise, as well as a procedure found in Honda Service Letter #126. Three tools are needed: a torque wrench, the special factory steering bearing nut socket (Honda's is part # 07916-3710100), and a good quality tubular 0-10 lb. spring scale. A floor jack or something similar to jack the front of the motorcycle off the floor will be handy, too.


    Follow your manual's instructions for removing the top triple clamp (Honda calls this a "bridge"), so that the pair of special castlelated nuts becomes accessible. The upper one is just a locknut. Remove it and set it aside, along with the special washer. Jack the front end up off the floor, and feel the bearings as you turn the bars each side from center. If the bearings are notchy or the front end has a self-centering action, the bearings need to be replaced, no second-guessing here. After replacing them if necessary, continue. Get the front end off the floor. Turn the fork to full right lock, and with the torque wrench and special socket, tighten the bearings to 40-50 ft-lbs. The fork will be very stiff. Don't panic. It's only temporary. Now turn the fork lock-to-lock, repeatedly, at least twenty times. You will probably notice something interesting: that ridiculously high tension will loosen up; the bearings will get looser, indicating that they have squared up and settled into the frame. In some cases, you won't be able to tell, but even if you don't notice the bearings loosening up, proceed. Turn the fork to full left lock now and loosen the nut until it's just finger tight, then turn the fork to the right lock again and tighten it to 7-10 ft/lbs.

    see fig below:---




    Attach your spring scale onto one fork tube, using a piece of shoestring or something similarly soft so as not to scratch the tube. With the fork assembly pointed straight ahead and the tire off the floor, slowly pull the spring scale straight ahead until the tip of the fender arcs about one inch. Note the poundage. You're looking for a 5-7 lb. pull. Five for motorcycles under 600 lbs., more for heavier machines and those with fairings. Tighten the tensioning nut as needed, a little at a time, and check with the spring scale.











    After adjusting, drop the special washer back into place, and screw on the locknut, but don't tighten it. Though you probably found the locknut jammed against the tensioning nut, that's not the correct way to install it. It should beclose to the tensioning nut, but not jammed against it. Leave a little space -- about 0.020". Then bend the locktabs into the locknut to keep the two interlocked. The locknut's job is to isolate the torque of the bridge nut from the steering bearings. Reassemble the rest of the fork per the manual. If a test ride reveals that there is still a decel wobble, or the bike sways side to side like a rowboat (the bearings are too tight), readjust to higher or lower spec as needed. Ride safely.


    If the steering head bearings need servicing, consider replacing ball bearings with roller bearings if your bike doesn't already have them. One list member reports that the bearings cost about $50. Follow the manual to remove the forks, take apart the stem, drive off the old bearings, and tap in the new bearings. This can take some patience, as they can be stuck tight. You will need a drift to remove the lower race from the stem (it has to go around a bend).

    You can install a grease fitting while you have the stem apart. Find a spot near the top of the stem and below the top bearing which does not interfere with cables, wires, etc. and can be reached with the drill and grease gun. Drill and tap the hole and install the zerk fitting. Grease the bearings, assemble the stem, adjust the bearings, and use the grease gun to fill the stem with grease. Stop when grease starts oozing out of the bearings. Wipe off the excess and reassemble.

    Some VF700S appear to suffer from a wobble or weave under certain high-demand conditions, especially high-speed (>=90 mph) sweepers. This appears to be inherent and probably is due to flexing of forks, frame, or both. Wobble under other conditions indicates that repairs or adjustments are needed somewhere.

    Diagnosis is as follows:

    1. Check that the steering head bearings aren't loose. This is probably the most common cause of front end wobble.
    2. Check that the tire pressure, especially the front, is at least up to the recommended level. If you are heavier than average or carrying a load, the pressure may need to be higher. Some tires also seem to perform a little better with slightly higher than recommended pressures. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES EXCEED THE MAXIMUM PRESSURE STATED ON THE TIRE SIDEWALL!
    3. Check the condition of the tires, especially the front, for "scalloping" or other uneven wear. Make sure they are installed in the correct direction of rotation.
    4. Loosen all the triple clamp bolts and make sure there is absolutely no "stress" on either fork tube. Check that the fork tubes are straight while you're at it. Also check that the handlebars are straight, then re-tighten the triple clamp bolts. If the fork tubes are not even with the top of the triple clamp, make that adjustment prior to tightening.
    5. Once you're sure it is not any of the above, you're down to other, less likely items. Systematically check everything that affects damping or could develop excessive tolerances or become misaligned in both the front and rear suspension: wheel bearings, fork bushings, fork oil (you do have fresh fork oil, don't you?), swingarm bushings, front/rear wheel alignment, and wheel runout.
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    It has been my experience that torquing the steering head bearings to specs doesn't always work.
    I like to put the bike on it's center stand (on my motorcycle lift) and strap the back end down so that the front end is free to rotate left and right.
    Then I torque the steering head bolt to the specs and then rotate the front and tighten more until there is a slight drag.
    Take it for a test ride up to around 60mph and take both hands off the handlebars and see if it does a head shake.
    If yes, back to the garage for another tightning until the head shake is eliminated.

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    Your shake is being caused by suspension not being dialed in properly for your weight. Those front springs are probably too light. Deceleration drops the front end slightly, laying the front forks more verticle, and also more unstable (i.e. shake). As a simple test, take the preload adjustment all the way out of your rear shock. This will lower the rear, and put more rake & trail into the front. Test ride the bike and your shake will be gone but it will also resist turning in the sweepers so be careful. Once that simple test proves your problem is suspension/geometry related, find another mechanic who understand suspension and get your bike adjusted properly for you.------------

    A lesson I learned recently that may help explain why the front tire replacement was unsuccesful was that the use of Dynabeads will cause a headshake in roughly 30%-40% of 6 gen VFR's. So if your installer is using them, ask him to do a more traditional static balance using wheel weights instead. If he his in fact using dynabeads, this will more than likely solve the problem.--------------

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    One incident with our client about head shake:---


    A buddy of mine had a similar problem with a high speed headshake on his honda vf. He initially brought the bike over to my garage complaining of looseness in the front end. An inspection revealed that his fork bushings were badly worn and his head bearings were toast. His front wheel bearings had a "gravelly" feel to them as well.

    We replaced the steering head bearings,wheel bearings,and rebuilt his forks. When we were through doing that my buddy took his rims and polished them. When he was done with that I installed the wheels and took the bike out for a test ride where I discovered that when I relaxed my grip on the bars it now had a fairly good headshake at high speed.

    I removed the front wheel,unbolted the rotors and discovered that when my buddy bolted the rotors back onto the rim he somehow got a big honkin' dollop of polishing compound trapped between the right side brake rotor and the rim. I cleaned that out and retested the bike. Much better but it still had a tiny bit of a headshake at high speed which got worse when you used the front brakes.

    I got out the dial micrometer and checked the runout on those front brake rotors and sure enough the left side rotor was out of spec. A closer inspection of that rotor revealed some damage. It looked to me as though the front wheel might have been leaning up against something and had fallen over and the rotor had hit the ground hard enough to cause that damage. My buddy swears up and down that never happened but the evidence on the rotor said otherwise.

    We picked up a good used rotor off Ebay from a salvage yard and installed it,then took the bike out for another test ride. Problem solved.

    Dunno if that's what's causing your headshake but since you checked everything else of note it couldn't hurt to have your mechanic check the runout on your front brake rotors too. It's possible they might have been damaged .---------



    Monday, May 30, 2011

    2003 buick century wiper troubleshooting?

    You have a bent tab under the cowling at the wiper motor.The tab "tells"the wiper motor where the arms are in laymens terms.If you straighten the tab back out and readjust the wiper motor cam they will work properly.This the procedure the inner wipe position is when the wipers stop during delay you turn the key off with the door open and than do the adjustment.
    Remove the air inlet grille panel in Body Front End. Remove the wiper motor water deflector.Using the j39232 tool, disconnect the wiper transmission from the wiper motor crank arm. Remove the wiper motor crank arm cover. Remove the wiper motor crank arm screw. Remove the wiper motor crank arm from the wiper motor.

    This condition may be caused by a bent park tab on the windshield wiper motor bracket.

    To correct this condition, install a new windshield wiper motor crank arm and a windshield wiper motor bracket service kit. Use the following service procedure:
    See fig below:--
    Object Number: 883067  Size: SH
    Remove the windshield wiper motor drive system module. Inspect the park tab on the wiper motor bracket. It may be bent as shown in the illustration above.

    This is the straight wiper motor park tab picture.it should be like this.See fig below:--

    Object Number: 883068  Size: SH

    part number 12494832 for Arm, Windshield Wiper Motor Crank


    part number 88958149 for Windshield Wiper Motor Bracket Service Kit in US


    part number 88958260 Windshield Wiper Motor Bracket Service Kit in Canada



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