Tuesday, June 21, 2011

how to change the inner tie rod on 1996 Buick Century

Steering Linkage INNER TIE rods REMOVAL


image




REMOVAL & INSTALLATION



Tie Rod Ends
INNER

See Figures 1, 2 and 3

  1. Loosen the lug nuts.
  2. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
  3. Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
  4. Remove the rack and pinion assembly from the vehicle.
  5. Disconnect and remove the outer tie rod from the inner tie rod assembly.
  6. Loosen the jam nut on the steering rack (inner tie rod).



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 1: Loosen the jam nut on the steering rack (inner tie rod)

  1. Remove the tie rod end nut and the end clamp. Disconnect the boot clamp with side cutters and discard the boot.
  2. Slide the shock dampener from the inner tie rod assembly and the other side of the rack.
  3. Make sure you hold on to the rack during the inner tie rod removal to prevent rack damage.

In order to maintain proper front end alignment after installation, be sure to count the number of turns while removing the tie rod.

  1. Separate the inner tie rod end from the rack. Place one wrench on the flat of the rack assembly. Then, place a wrench on the flats of the inner tie rod housing. Rotate the housing counterclockwise until the tie rod separates from the rack.



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 2: Place one wrench on the flat of the rack assembly. Place another wrench on the flats of the inner tie rod housing. Rotate the housing counter-clockwise until the tie rod separates from the rack

To install:
  1. The rack must be held during the inner tie rod installation to prevent internal gear damage.
  2. Install the rack and pinion assembly, then slide the shock dampener on top the rack.
  3. Screw the tie rod end onto the steering rack (inner tie rod) the same number of turns as counted for removal. This will give approximately correct toe. Tighten the nut approximately 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).
  4. Make sure that the tie rod rocks freely in the housing before staking the inner tie rod assembly or the rack.
  5. Support the rack and housing of the inner tie rod assembly, then stake both sides of the inner rod housing to the flats on the rack.



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 3: Support the rack and housing of the inner tie rod assembly, then stake both sides of the inner rod housing to the flats on the rack

  1. Check both stakes by inserting a (0.25mm) 0.010 inch feeler gauge between the rack and the tie rod housing as shown in the picture. The feeler must not pass between the rack and the housing stake.
  2. Slide the shock dampener over the housing until it engages, then install a new boot clamp onto the rack and pinion boot.
  3. Apply grease to the inner tie rod and housing. Insert the elbow of the boot into the breather tube. Install the boot onto the housing until it seats in the housing groove.

Do not twist or pucker the boot after installation.

  1. Position a new boot clamp on the boot and crimp, then position the tie rod end clamp with a pair of pliers on the boot.
  2. Install a hex jam nut to the inner tie rod assembly and tighten, then install the outer tie rod.
  3. Install the tie and wheel assembly, hand-tighten the lug nuts.
  4. Lower the vehicle, then tighten the lug nuts to 100 ft. lbs. (136 Nm).

OUTER

See Figures 4, 5, 6 and 7

  1. Loosen the lug nuts, then raise and support the vehicle.
  2. Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
  3. Loosen the jam nut.
  4. Remove and discard the cotter pin.



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 4: After loosening the jam nut, remove and discard the cotter pin

  1. Using a suitable tool remove the hex nut holding the tie rod in place.



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 5: Using a suitable tool, remove the hex nut holding the tie rod in place

  1. With a tie rod puller, the tie rod can be separated from the knuckle.



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 6: The tie rod can be separated from the knuckle with a tie rod puller

  1. After separation, unscrew the end from the shaft.



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 7: After separation, unscrew the end from the shaft

To install:
  1. Connect the new outer tie rod end onto the inner shaft, then connect the tie rod end to the knuckle.
  2. Tighten the hex slotted nut to 31-52 ft. lbs. (42-70 Nm) to align the cotter pin into the slot, ( 1 / 6 turn maximum). Do not back off the nut to install the cotter pin.
  3. Insert a new cotter pin into the tie rod stud.
  4. Adjust the toe, then tighten the jam nut to 52 ft. lbs. (70 Nm).

The 1996 Buick Century came equipped with a "Rack and Pinion" style steering system. In the rack and pinion system, the wheels connect directly to the steering gear by outer tie-rod ends and inner tie-rod sockets. This system is compact, lightweight and durable, but like other steering linkage systems, will require replacement of the tie-rod ends when they wear out.

  • Secure the rear wheels of the Century by applying the parking brake and wedging wheel chocks against the rear tires. Raise and support the front of the car using a floor jack positioned under the center of the front subframe and jack stands placed under the sides of the subframe. Remove the wheel using a lug wrench.

  • Loosen the jam nut that secures the outer tie-rod to the inner tie-rod. Use a pair of wire cutters to straighten and remove the cotter pin that secures the castellated nut to the outer tie-rod end stud. Remove the castellated nut using an 18 mm wrench.

  • Slip a tie-rod separator onto the steering arm and over the tie-rod stud. Turn the center nut on the separator until it forces the stud from the steering arm. Unscrew the outer tie-rod from the inner tie-rod, counting the number of turns it takes to remove the outer tie-rod completely. Unscrew the tie-rod jamb nut.

  • Use pliers to pinch the spring clamp that secures the bellows boot to the inner tie-rod. Use a screwdriver the open the clamp that attaches the bellows boot to the rack and pinion unit. Slide the bellows boot off the tie-rod.

  • Slide the inner tie-rod tool adaptor over the nut on the inside end of the inner tie-rod socket. Slide the tie-rod tool onto the tie-rod and over the adapter. Rotate the tool using a ratchet wrench to unscrew the tie-rod socket from the rack and pinion unit. Remove the inner tie-rod.

  • Apply a dab of thread locking compound to the threads of the new tie-rod socket, and screw it onto the rack and pinion by hand. Tighten it securely with the inner tie-rod tool. Reinstall the bellows boot over the tie-rod.

  • Install the new outer tie-rod jamb nut into the inner tie-rod. Screw the new outer tie-rod end onto the inner tie-rod the same number of turns it took to unscrew the old one. Slide the tie-rod stud into the steering arm and reinstall the castellated nut. Torque the castellated nut to 40 foot-pounds using a torque wrench. Torque the jamb nut to 46 foot- pounds.

  • Install a new cotter pin into the castellated nut and bend the ends of the pin. Reinstall the wheel and torque the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds. Lower the car and have a front-end alignment performed by a qualified auto repair shop to restore the toe angle to factory specifications.

  • Power Rack and Pinion



    REMOVAL & INSTALLATION




    See Figure 1

    1. Raise the intermediate shaft seal and remove intermediate shaft-to-stub shaft pinch bolt.
    2. Remove the air cleaner and disconnect the pressure hoses from the steering gear.
    3. Raise and support the vehicle on jackstands, then remove both front wheel and tire assemblies.
    4. Remove the cotter pins and nuts from both tie rod ends. Using tool J-6627 or BT-7101, press the tie rod ends from the steering knuckle.
    5. If equipped with an Air Management pipe, remove the bracket bolt from the crossmember.
    6. Remove the 2 rear cradle mounting bolts and lower the rear of the cradle about 4-5 in. (102-127mm).


    WARNING
    If the rear of the cradle is lowered too far, the engine components nearest the cowl may be damaged.

    1. If equipped, remove the rack and pinion heat shield.



    Click image to see an enlarged view

    Fig. Fig. 1: Power rack and pinion assembly

    1. Remove the rack and pinion mounting bolts, then the gear assembly through the left wheel opening.

    To install:
    1. Install the gear assembly through the left wheel opening and install the mounting bolts.
    2. Install the heat shield.
    3. Raise the rear of the cradle and install the mounting bolts.
    4. Install the bracket bolt to the crossmember under the air management pipe.
    5. Install the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles, install the retaining nuts and insert new cotter pins.
    6. Install the front wheels and lower the vehicle.
    7. Install the high pressure hoses to the steering gear and install the air cleaner.
    8. Install the intermediate shaft seal and the intermediate shaft-to-stub shaft pinch bolt.

    2.2L Engine
    1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
    2. Install an engine support fixture J-28467-A, or the equivalent.
    3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
    4. Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
    5. Remove the intermediate shaft lower pinch bolt.
    6. Disconnect the intermediate shaft from stub shaft.


    CAUTION
    Failure to disconnect the intermediate shaft from the rack and pinion stub shaft can result in damage to the steering gear and/or intermediate shaft. This damage can cause loss of steering control which could result in personal injury.

    1. Remove the exhaust pipe hanger bracket near rear of frame including the brake line retainer and rubber exhaust pipe hangers.
    2. Remove the engine and transaxle mount nuts at the subframe.
    3. Support the rear of the subframe with jack stands.
    4. Remove the rear subframe bolts and discard.
    5. Lower the subframe for access to rack and pinion.

    Do not lower the rear of the cradle too far, as damage to engine components nearest the cowl may result.

    1. Remove the cotter pins and castle nuts from the outer tie rod ends and separate the tie rod ends from the steering knuckles using a suitable puller.
    2. Disconnect the power steering lines from the steering gear.
    3. Remove the rack and pinion mounting bolts and nuts.
    4. Remove the rack and pinion through left wheel opening.

    To Install:
    1. Install the rack and pinion through left wheel opening.
    2. Install the rack and pinion mounting bolts and nuts and tighten to 66 ft. lbs. (90 Nm).
    3. Connect the power steering lines to the rack using new O-rings and tighten the fittings to 13 ft. lbs. (17 Nm) on the return line and 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm) on the pressure line.
    4. Install the power steering line clip to steering gear.
    5. Connect the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles. Tighten the castle nuts to 31 ft. lbs. (42 Nm). Install new cotter pins.
    6. Raise the subframe into position and install new frame mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 103 ft. lbs. (140 Nm).
    7. Remove the jack.
    8. Install the engine mount and transaxle mount nuts and tighten to 39 ft. lbs. (53 Nm).
    9. Install the exhaust pipe hanger bracket near the rear of frame including brake line retainer and rubber exhaust pipe hanger.
    10. Connect the intermediate shaft to the stub shaft and tighten the pinch bolt to 29 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
    11. Install the tire and wheel assembly.
    12. Lower the vehicle.
    13. Remove the support fixture.
    14. Connect the negative battery cable.
    15. Refill the power steering reservoir and bleed the system.
    16. Check the front end alignment and adjust as necessary.

    3.1L Engine (VIN M)
    1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
    2. Remove engine torque strut from engine.
    3. Install an engine support fixture J-28467-A, or the equivalent.
    4. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
    5. Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
    6. Remove the cotter pins and castle nuts from the outer tie rod ends and separate the tie rod ends from the steering knuckles using a suitable puller.
    7. Remove the center engine and rear transaxle mounts from the frame.
    8. Remove the intermediate shaft lower pinch bolt.
    9. Disconnect the intermediate shaft from stub shaft.


    CAUTION
    Failure to disconnect the intermediate shaft from the rack and pinion stub shaft can result in damage to the steering gear and/or intermediate shaft. This damage can cause loss of steering control which could result in personal injury.

    1. Remove the brace bolts and brace, including brake line brace.
    2. Support the rear of the subframe with jack stands.
    3. Remove the rear subframe bolts and discard.
    4. Lower the subframe for access to rack and pinion.
    5. Remove the steering gear heat shield.
    6. Remove the clip holding lines at rack assembly.
    7. Disconnect the power steering lines and O-rings.
    8. Remove the rack and pinion mounting bolts and nuts.
    9. Remove the rack and pinion unit through the left wheel well.

    To Install:
    1. Install the rack and pinion through left wheel opening.
    2. Install the rack and pinion mounting bolts and nuts and tighten the mounting bolts to 66 ft. lbs. (90 Nm).
    3. Connect the power steering lines to the rack using new O-rings and tighten the fittings to 13 ft. lbs. (17 Nm) on the return line and 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm). on the pressure line.
    4. Install the power steering line clip to steering gear.
    5. Install the steering gear heat shield.
    6. Raise the subframe into position and install new frame mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 103 ft. lbs. (140 Nm).
    7. Remove the jack.
    8. Install the engine mount and transaxle mount nuts and tighten to 39 ft. lbs. (53 Nm).
    9. Install the brace and bolts including brake line brace.
    10. Connect the intermediate shaft to the stub shaft and tighten the pinch bolt to 29 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
    11. Connect the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles. Tighten the castle nuts to 31 ft. lbs. (42 Nm). Install new cotter pins.
    12. Install the tire and wheel assembly.
    13. Lower the vehicle.
    14. Remove the support fixture.
    15. Connect the negative battery cable.
    16. Refill the power steering reservoir and bleed the system.
    17. Check the front end alignment and adjust as necessary.
    --------------

    STEERING


    The A-Body cars use an aluminum-housed Saginaw manual rack and pinion steering gear as standard equipment. The pinion is supported by and turns in a sealed ball bearing at the top and a pressed-in roller bearing at the bottom. The rack moves in bushings pressed into each end of the rack housing.

    Wear compensation occurs through the action of an adjuster spring which forces the rack against the pinion teeth. This adjuster eliminates the need for periodic pinion preload adjustments. Preload is adjustable only at overhaul.

    The inner tie rod assemblies are both threaded and staked to the rack. A special joint is used, allowing both rocking and rotating motion of the tie rods. The inner tie rod assemblies are lubricated for life and require no periodic attention.

    Any service other than replacement of the outer tie rods or the boots requires removal of the unit from the car.

    The optional power rack and pinion steering gear is an integral unit, and shares most features with the manual gear. A rotary control valve directs the hydraulic fluid to either side of the rack piston. The integral rack piston is attached to the rack and converts the hydraulic pressure into left or right linear motion. A vane-type constant displacement pump with integral reservoir provides hydraulic pressure. No in-car adjustments are necessary or possible on the system, except for periodic belt tension checks and adjustments for the pump.

    --------------------

    Rack Bearing Preload


    ADJUSTMENT



    1. Make the adjustment with the front wheels raised and the steering wheel centered. Be sure to check the returnability of the steering wheel to the center after adjustment.
    2. Loosen the adjuster plug locknut and turn the adjuster plug clockwise until it bottoms in the gear assembly, then back off 50°-70° (approximately 1 / 6 revolution).
    3. Install the lock to the adjusting nut, then tighten the adjusting nut to 50 ft. lbs. (70 Nm) while holding the adjuster plug stationary.
    ----------------

    Steering Column


    Once the steering column is removed from the car, the column is extremely susceptible to damage. Dropping the column assembly on its end could collapse the steering shaft or loosen the plastic injections which maintain column rigidity. Leaning on the column assembly could cause the jacket to bend or deform. Any of the above damage could impair the column's collapsible design. If it is necessary to remove the steering wheel, use a standard wheel puller. Under no condition should the end of the shaft be hammered upon, as hammering could loosen the plastic injection.

    REMOVAL & INSTALLATION



    See Figures 1 and 2



    Click image to see an enlarged view

    Fig. Fig. 1: Tilt steering column assembly exploded view



    Click image to see an enlarged view

    Fig. Fig. 2: Numbered list for the tilt steering column

    1. If your vehicle is equipped with the SIR system, disable the system before proceeding.
    2. Remove the left instrument panel sound insulator. Next remove the left instrument trim pad and steering column trim collar.
    3. If column repairs are to be made, remove the steering wheel.


    CAUTION
    Failure to disconnect the intermediate shaft from the rack and pinion stub shaft can result in damage to the steering gear and/or the intermediate shaft itself. This damage can cause loss of steering control which could result in personal injury.

    1. Remove the steering column to intermediate shaft connection.
    2. Remove the deflector and bracket.
    3. Disconnect the shift indicator cable.
    4. Disconnect all wiring harness connectors. Remove the dust boot mounting screws and column mounting bracket bolts.
    5. Lower the column to clear the mounting bracket and carefully remove from the car.

    To install:

    If a service replacement steering column is being installed, do not remove the anti-rotation pin until after the steering column has been connected to the steering gear. Removing the anti-rotation pin before the steering column is connected to the steering gear could damage the SIR coil assembly.

    1. Install the column into the vehicle and raise it into the mounting bracket.
    2. Attach the shift cable to the actuator and housing holder.
    3. Loosely install the column mounting bolts and all wiring harness connectors.
    4. Attach the shift indicator cable, along with the deflector and brackets.


    CAUTION
    Failure to connect the intermediate shaft to the rack and pinion stub shaft can result in damage to the steering gear and/or the intermediate shaft itself. This damage can cause loss of steering control which could result in personal injury.

    1. Connect the intermediate shaft to the steering column upper shaft pinch bolt. On SIR systems, tighten the steering column bolts to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm), steering column lower support nut to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm), steering column upper support stud to 21 ft. lbs. (29 Nm) and the intermediate shaft bolt to 35 ft. lbs. (48 Nm). On non-SIR systems, tighten the support bolts to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm), and the upper pinch bolts to 34 ft. lbs. (46 Nm).
    2. Inspect the shift indicator adjustment.
    3. Install the anti-rotation pin, if a service replacement steering column is being installed.
    4. Install the steering wheel. Attach the steering column trim collar and the left instrument panel trim pad.
    5. Replace the left sound insulator.
    6. Enable the SIR system, then connect the negative battery cable.
    -------------


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