Removal & Installation
Ok here is the list of materials and tools needed:
- Clutch secondary/slave cylinder repair kit - get yourself the original mitsu and spare yourself the extra labor from getting the non-original parts
- 12 mm socket or 12mm box wrench - 1/2" drive will do but its better to have 3/8" drive because the socket/ratchet will hit the fan shroud for 1/2." I don't have 3/8" so I opted to use the box wrench
- 10 mm box wrench for bleeding. This is the only thing I got, but if you have a 10mm flare wrench the better.
- Torque wrench
- lots of rags (preferably white) and old toothbrush
- cotton buds
- biggest syringe available (optional)
- DOT3 brake fluid - get a liter
- High temp grease
- A friend of companion for bleeding
- Eye protection
- Catch container for bleeding - I just use plain party cups for this.
As an added bonus, I'll also show how to replace your fluid and clean the reservoir. Chances are, you already have a black fluid when you have leaks since rubber tends to dissolve within the enclosed system.
- It is mandatory to repack the shift fork connection to the pushrod with high temp grease when disassembled.
- Always wear eye protection.
- Brake fluid is very corrosive. Protect your painted surfaces. When brake fluid comes into contact, wipe out the surface and flush with water ASAP!
- NEVER use any other fluid (water, brake cleaner, carb cleaner, alcohol etc...) to clean the system. ALWAYS use fresh brake fluid - nothing else!
1 - Remove the 2 12mm bolts below where the cylinder attaches itself to the tranny and set it aside for reuse.
2 - Pull the assembly out of the original position being careful no the bend the clutch piping
3 - Place a cover below the part where the assembly is to catch some leaking fluid.
4 - Pull the rubber boot starting from the end of the cylinder. If you do have leaks, its possible to have fluid gushing out.
5 - Separate the push rod from the old rubber boot
6 - Carefully pull the piston, piston cup and the conical spring. Don't get the spring bent or damaged or else you clutch will remain disengaged forever.
7 - Separate the spring from the piston. It is just clipped on the protruded end of the piston.
8 - Throw away the old rubber boot, piston and piston cup. Use everthing in the kit.
9 - Gently clean the pushrod and the spring with new brake fluid. A toothbrush may help here. Also clean the inside of the cylinder with a clean rag and brake fluid.
10 - Using the new piston/piston cup, clip the small end of conical spring to the protruding end of the piston. Wet this with a fresh brake fluid from the bottle. Wet the inside of the cylinder with brake fluid.
11 - Push the piston back to the cylinder conical spring first. Extra effor may be needed to slightly compress the piston cup.
12 - Insert the push rod to the new rubber boot. Take note of the notch on one end. This serves as a sort of lock for the small end of the boot.
13 - Pack the shift fork with grease. Add a little more on the end of the push rod.
14 - Insert the pushrod to the release fork and bolt in the cylinder assembly. If you do have a torque wrench or when space permits, torque the 12 mm bolts to 19 Nm or 14 ft. lbs.
1 - I did it the old fashioned way. I have my brother in law press and depress the clutch pedal, while I stayed outside to open/close the bleeder.
2 - Open your clutch reservoir and remove the old fluid. There are two approaches. One is to use a syringe and suck out the old fluid. Next is to use a clean absorbent cloth and have the fluid out of the reservoir.
3 - Wipe out the insde with a clean cloth dabbed in fresh brake fluid. If you happen to see dirt or grime on the small portions of the cylinder, use dry cotton buds to get the black goop out. Also clean the reservoir cap.
4 - When everthing is clean, top up the reservoir. You can exceed the MAX line at this time.
5 - When all is set, remove the cap and insert your 10mm socket or 10mm flare wrench (prefered).
6 - Loosen the bleeder and return it back to a tightened state. Take note: tightened NOT torqued.
7 - Have a catch placed near the bleeder.
Iterative Bleeding Process:
1 - Press pedal down to the floor.
2 - Open bleeder.
3 - Close bleeder.
4 - Depress pedal fully.
5 - When reservoir is down to MIN, refill.
6 - Repeat to step 1 untill brake fluid comes out clean with high pressure squirts.
7 - Torque up the bleeder to 11Nm or 8 ft. lbs. to prevent leaks and thread damage.
It took use more than an hour to fully clean/bleed the system because I had a squid like fluid plus I rushed to the nearest auto supply to purchase a liter of fluid. I just bought a quarter of a liter prior to the activity. That's why I mentioned have plenty of fluid. It's cheap anyway.
For push type of clutch release cylinders, I found it a time saver to push back the release fork towards the secondary cylinder and holding it for around 3 seconds and watch the reservoir bubble out the excess air inside. I did this 5 times. This also helps push the conical spring to its proper seat inside the cylinder.
Chances are you also have dirt/grime sticking outside the body of the reservoir and cap which cannot be removed with soap and water by scrubbing. Remember the last clean squirts you got during bleeding? Don't discard it yet, get a clean rag and dab it in. Use this to wipe out the master cylinder area and have your handy toothbrush scrub the dirt and grime out. When you are satisfied with the cleanliness, flush it out with water and wipe it off.
Removal & Installation
Understanding The Clutch
The purpose of the clutch is to disconnect and connect engine power at the transaxle. A vehicle at rest requires a lot of engine torque to get all that weight moving. An internal combustion engine does not develop a high starting torque (unlike steam engines) so it must be allowed to operate without any load until it builds up enough torque to move the vehicle. Torque increases with engine rpm. The clutch allows the engine to build up torque by physically disconnecting the engine from the transaxle, relieving the engine of any load or resistance.
The transfer of engine power to the transaxle (the load) must be smooth and gradual; if it weren't, drive line components would wear out or break quickly. This gradual power transfer is made possible by gradually releasing the clutch pedal. The clutch disc and pressure plate are the connecting link between the engine and transaxle. When the clutch pedal is released, the disc and plate contact each other (the clutch is engaged) physically joining the engine and transaxle. When the pedal is pushed inward, the disc and plate separate (the clutch is disengaged) disconnecting the engine from the transaxle.
Most clutches utilize a single plate, dry friction disc with a diaphragm-style spring pressure plate. The clutch disc has a splined hub which attaches the disc to the input shaft. The disc has friction material where it contacts the flywheel and pressure plate. Torsion springs on the disc help absorb engine torque pulses. The pressure plate applies pressure to the clutch disc, holding it tight against the surface of the flywheel. The clutch operating mechanism consists of a release bearing, fork and cylinder assembly.
The release fork and actuating linkage transfer pedal motion to the release bearing. In the engaged position (pedal released) the diaphragm spring holds the pressure plate against the clutch disc, so engine torque is transmitted to the input shaft. When the clutch pedal is depressed, the release bearing pushes the diaphragm spring center toward the flywheel. The diaphragm spring pivots the fulcrum, relieving the load on the pressure plate. Steel spring straps riveted to the clutch cover lift the pressure plate from the clutch disc, disengaging the engine drive from the transaxle and enabling the gears to be changed.
The clutch is operating properly if:
Mirage-6.61-6.8 in. (168-171mm)
Galant -6.93-7.17 in. (176-182mm)
Mirage-0.04-0.12 in. (1-3mm)
Galant-0.04-0.12 in. (1-3mm)
For vehicles without cruise control, turn and adjust the bolt so the pedal height is the standard value, then tighten the locknut.
For vehicles with the auto-cruise control system, detach the clutch switch connector and turn the switch to obtain the standard clutch pedal height. Then, lock with the locknut.
Pedal Height & Free-Play
Driven Disc & Pressure Plate
Removal & Installation
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