Sunday, July 3, 2011

Toyota Camry door locks troubleshooting ?

This door lock problem is very common in Toyota Camry's :--

One works everytime (the driver) and the other 3 stop/start together usually. Sometimes one might open but rare. Seems to be low current to the 3 doors when the inside of the car is hot (some noise, but not strong enough to unlock but doors will lock if manually unlocked). The electrical charts seems to narrow down to one pin on the ECU.

This problem usually requires replacement of the entire fuse panel under the dash $$$$600.00++
There is a relay board inside the fuse panel and one of the tiny relays goes bad causing the 3 door fault (R/F, R/R & L/R) on a 4-door Camry. The driver door is not affected because this circuit board is where the two-click feature for the remote control is separated from the all-lock/all-unlock that is normal with the lock buttons. You can tap on the fuse panel while pushing the unlock button and the locks will begin working for a short time. The circuit board can be removed separately but Toyota only sells the whole fuse panel.

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about ten minutes to pop the arm rest out and put it back in. Unfortunately this did not solve the problem. It may for some of you though. All you have to do is pop out the soft rubber insert in the arm rest to reveal a screw. Remove the screw and place a slotted screwdriver under the plastic piece of the armrest. Place the screwdriver under the plastic away from the hinge side of the door and push in and pop it up.
Your post was exactly what I needed. I popped the arm rest off and found that the electrical harnness had simply jiggled apart. easy fix. woo hoo! Now I can go cancel the extended warranty that I just got scared into buying.
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Here's something I just discovered: I had an ignition mute installed ages ago where, if the car was locked with the remote and entered by any other way (including key in the door) the ignition doesn't get any juice unless you also press a button under the dash. This has always worked flawlessly. Now, at the same time this "remote can lock/can't unlock" started, the car will start without using the button.

Sound like a dirty solenoid? Or wire issue?
Clean or replace the door solenoid.But get it inspected.-----------------

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Same issue with me. Mine is heat related.

When hot inside car after sitting in sun during hot day:

One push of remote, driver door unlocks, second push only a quiet click without anything else opening. Same with door buttons (driver or passenger). Push to unlock, only driver opens. Push again, just a quiet click.

Once I get home after A/C running or if not real hot, everything works fine.

I am thinking the quiet click is the relay on fuse panel in cab. I am thinking I need to get my head in there while someone else operates. Also, thinking tests with hairdryer, circuit cooler spray, etc.

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I purchased a toyota Camry by a private sale. Right after I bought it I had to pay the dealer about $450 to replace the intermediate steering shaft to resolve a 'clunking' problem which I had (and learned about via this forum). Now I'm having door lock problems similar to what others have described. It's very intermittent - some days everything works just fine and then all of a sudden the remote will only open the driver's door and the lock/unlock button on the door won't operate any of the other doors. Then the problem will just go away for awhile. This is a real safety problem in my opinion. If there's a child strapped in a car seat on the passenger side rear, you can't open the door without getting the passenger side front door open first then reaching back and manually operating the door or the lock button. I don't think it's moisture related because I have the problem even on nice days and the car is kept in the garage at night. The dealer was initially no help since I couldn't duplicate the problem. I have contacted Toyota and have been promised a contact by the dealer's Customer Relations Manager. We'll see where it leads.

Ok good news, they informed me that it was short ion complete fuse panel and it has to be replaced,The cost is approx $650, but mine was under warranty, so i was just charged $150 as labor.
For last seven days i have no such problem, lets see how much it goes further.-----------

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NEW CASE:---
We just bought the Camry from a used car dealer about 2 weeks ago now, luckily they have a 60-day warranty so this should be covered by that. We dropped it off at the dealer and we are really lucky!! Yesterday they said it started having the problem again so they said they should be able to fix it. But who knows today it could have fixed itself again, I'm hoping for the best!

Just had the car for 2 weeks and already 2 problems, they fixed the intermediate steering shaft issue (TSB for that, knocking sound/feel during low speed steering), and now the doorlock problem. This is our first Toyota, we've heard great things I'm really shocked!! We opted out of getting the extended warranty because well...it's a Toyota! maybe a mistake?

Great news! They fixed the doorlock problem under the 60 day warranty (good thing we bought it from the dealer). It took them a while though, they had to order the part from Toyota because they didn't have it in stock. It turned out to be a bad ECU for the doorlock controls. They said it costs about $400 for those of you out of warranty, shouldn't be too bad. Just got it back today, hopefully nothing else goes wrong!!

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NEW CASE:--
My '05 Camry just started having this problem too! All the doors lock just fine, but only the driver door unlocks with the power switches and the keyless entry.

The problem has gone away and come back a couple times, so I don't want to take it into the dealer for fear it might start working again as soon as they look at it. I'd also like to find out what's the cause first so I have an idea of how much I should pay for it. If it's an actuator that's gone bad would it be the drivers door that's the culprit, since I doubt that the other 3 doors went bad at the same time. It seems like an electrical problem to me.

One thing to note, I have been parking the car outside by our sprinkler system so perhaps some moisture is getting inside the doors in the morning. Do you think I should move it so it's not getting wet at all?

OK, i got it to the dealer and they checked the problem and i was informed after 3 days that problem was faulty door lock actuators and faulty ECU.------- The cost was approx $850.

The same thing happened to my ps front door. All others would unlock except that one when I hit the button on the key fob. I went to the dealer and low and behold it started to work! No repair. A few months later the rear door acted up for a week. Before I could get in it started to work again. A few months ago my ds started acting up. Well this one was a nuisance! I gave it a while and it was not gettting better so I went to the dealer and they looked at it and ordered some part that goes in the door. While I was waiting for the part to come in, it started to work again!

Anyway, they said since it was still under warranty and they now had the part that they would replace it. They said my bill would have been about $425 had I not had the Platinum 7/75 warranty. Holy Crap! If any of the other doors start misbehaving I am taking it right back. I only have 6 months warranty left and they said each door has one of those things in it.

What caused it? The guy said moisture gets in there and causes issues.I asked them, what part they replaced, and in the bill they mentioned that door lock actuators are replaced.For 3 sides except driver door.--------------


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