Sunday, February 5, 2012

Spark plug Replacing for chevy impala?

For proper understanding and knowledge see all the gaping spark plug,spark plug firing order and its removal instructions.
For spark plug gaping
Click the link below and see the details:----

http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/how-to-gap-spark-plug-on-chevy-impala.html



For spark plug firing order detail
Click the link below
:----
http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/chevy-impala-spark-plug-firing-order.html

And for spark plug wiring and replacement read as follows :-----


Removal & Installation



A set of spark plugs usually requires replacement after about 20,000-30,000 miles (32,000-48,000 km), depending on your style of driving. Top quality (platinum) plugs in a well-maintained engine may go as many as 100,000 miles (160,000 km) between change intervals. On some engines, hard parts such as the intake manifold may need to be disassembled. On V6 engines, the firewall side spark plugs will be difficult access, so spark plug changes have become more of challenge than in times past, another reason manufacturers have gone to longer change intervals. On a practical note, many technicians feel that letting spark plugs stay in the engine that long will make removal very difficult and may even damage the cylinder head, especially aluminum heads.
Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Although the original spark plug wires may have identification numbers on them, it is good practice to use small tags to identify the spark plug wires before removal, to avoid improper installation


Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. A flex-head ratchet, along with a suitable extension and spark plug socket help with spark plug removal and installation


Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. The small protrusions on this spark plug's electrodes identify it as a platinum tipped spark plug that can be regapped but must not be filed or the platinum tips will be damaged


Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. For spark plugs being installed in cast iron cylinder heads, apply a small amount of clean engine oil to the spark plug threads


Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. For spark plugs being installed in aluminum cylinder heads, it is important to apply a small amount of anti-seize compound to the spark plug threads


Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. It can be hard to start the threads, so slip a piece of tight-fitting vacuum hose over the end of the spark plugs, then install the plug, turning with the hose


Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. This spark plug wire has a heat shield
Some sources feel, that in normal operation, plug gap increases about 0.001 in. (0.025mm) for every 2,500 miles (4,000 km). As the gap increases, the plug's voltage requirement also increases. It requires a greater voltage to jump the wider gap and about two to three times as much voltage to fire the plug at high speeds than at idle. The improved air/fuel ratio control of modern fuel injection combined with the higher voltage output of modern ignition systems will often allow an engine to run significantly longer on a set of standard spark plugs, but keep in mind that efficiency may drop as the gap widens (along with fuel economy and power).
There are a number of points to keep in mind when changing spark plugs.


When you're removing spark plugs, work on one at a time. Don't start by removing the plug wires all at once, because, unless you number them, they may become mixed up. Take a minute before you begin and number the wires with tape. If the vehicle has been run recently, allow the engine to thoroughly cool.
Carefully twist the spark plug wire boot to loosen it, then pull upward and remove the boot from the plug. Be sure to pull on the boot and not on the wire, otherwise the connector located inside the boot may become separated.
Using compressed air, blow any water or debris from the spark plug well to assure that no harmful contaminants are allowed to enter the combustion chamber when the spark plug is removed. If compressed air is not available, use a rag or a brush to clean the area. Use a spark plug socket that is equipped with a rubber insert to properly hold the plug.


WARNING
Be sure not to use a flexible extension on the socket. Use of a flexible extension may allow a shear force to be applied to the plug. A shear force could break the plug off in the cylinder head, leading to costly and frustrating repairs.



Use care when threading the plug into the bore by hand. If resistance is felt before the plug is almost completely threaded, back the plug out and begin threading again. In small, hard to reach areas, an old spark plug wire and boot could be used as a threading tool. The boot will hold the plug while you twist the end of the wire and the wire is supple enough to twist before it would allow the plug to crossthread.


WARNING
Do not use the spark plug socket to thread the plugs. Always carefully thread the plug by hand or using an old plug wire to prevent the possibility of crossthreading and damaging the cylinder head bore.



Use care when tightening the spark plug. Tapered seat plugs do not require as much torque as plugs with crush gaskets. Tighten the plug to specifications provided by the vehicle or plug manufacturer. GM original equipment spark plug wires have a coating on them and GM no longer recommends putting silicone dielectric compound on the end of the spark plug lead or inside the spark plug boot to prevent sticking, since they feel this leaks to carbon tracking and spark plug misfire. Carefully install the boot to the spark plug and push until it clicks into place. The click may be felt or heard, then gently pull back on the boot to assure proper contact.

A set of spark plugs usually requires replacement after about 20,000-30,000 miles (32,000-48,000 km), depending on your style of driving. Top quality (platinum) plugs in a well-maintained engine may go as many as 100,000 miles (160,000 km) between change intervals. On some engines, hard parts such as the intake manifold may need to be disassembled. On V6 engines, the firewall side spark plugs will be difficult access, so spark plug changes have become more of challenge than in times past, another reason manufacturers have gone to longer change intervals. On a practical note, many technicians feel that letting spark plugs stay in the engine that long will make removal very difficult and may even damage the cylinder head, especially aluminum heads.
Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Although the original spark plug wires may have identification numbers on them, it is good practice to use small tags to identify the spark plug wires before removal, to avoid improper installation


Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. A flex-head ratchet, along with a suitable extension and spark plug socket help with spark plug removal and installation


Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. The small protrusions on this spark plugs electrodes identify it as a platinum tipped spark plug that can be re-gapped but must not be filed or the platinum tips will be damaged


Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. For spark plugs being installed in cast iron cylinder heads, apply a small amount of clean engine oil to the spark plug threads


Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. For spark plugs being installed in aluminum cylinder heads, it is important to apply a small amount of anti-seize compound to the spark plug threads


Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. It can be hard to start the threads, so slip a piece of tight-fitting vacuum hose over the end of the spark plugs, then install the plug, turning with the hose


Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. This spark plug wire has a heat shield
Some sources feel, that in normal operation, plug gap increases about 0.001 in. (0.025mm) for every 2,500 miles (4,000 km). As the gap increases, the plug's voltage requirement also increases. It requires a greater voltage to jump the wider gap and about two to three times as much voltage to fire the plug at high speeds than at idle. The improved air/fuel ratio control of modern fuel injection combined with the higher voltage output of modern ignition systems will often allow an engine to run significantly longer on a set of standard spark plugs, but keep in mind that efficiency may drop as the gap widens (along with fuel economy and power).
There are a number of points to keep in mind when changing spark plugs.


When you're removing spark plugs, work on one at a time. Don't start by removing the plug wires all at once, because, unless you number them, they may become mixed up. Take a minute before you begin and number the wires with tape. If the vehicle has been run recently, allow the engine to thoroughly cool.
Carefully twist the spark plug wire boot to loosen it, then pull upward and remove the boot from the plug. Be sure to pull on the boot and not on the wire, otherwise the connector located inside the boot may become separated.
Using compressed air, blow any water or debris from the spark plug well to assure that no harmful contaminants are allowed to enter the combustion chamber when the spark plug is removed. If compressed air is not available, use a rag or a brush to clean the area. Use a spark plug socket that is equipped with a rubber insert to properly hold the plug.


WARNING
Be sure not to use a flexible extension on the socket. Use of a flexible extension may allow a shear force to be applied to the plug. A shear force could break the plug off in the cylinder head, leading to costly and frustrating repairs.



Use care when threading the plug into the bore by hand. If resistance is felt before the plug is almost completely threaded, back the plug out and begin threading again. In small, hard to reach areas, an old spark plug wire and boot could be used as a threading tool. The boot will hold the plug while you twist the end of the wire and the wire is supple enough to twist before it would allow the plug to crossthread.


WARNING
Do not use the spark plug socket to thread the plugs. Always carefully thread the plug by hand or using an old plug wire to prevent the possibility of crossthreading and damaging the cylinder head bore.



Use care when tightening the spark plug. Tapered seat plugs do not require as much torque as plugs with crush gaskets. Tighten the plug to specifications provided by the vehicle or plug manufacturer. GM original equipment spark plug wires have a coating on them and GM no longer recommends putting silicone dielectric compound on the end of the spark plug lead or inside the spark plug boot to prevent sticking, since they feel this leaks to carbon tracking and spark plug misfire. Carefully install the boot to the spark plug and push until it clicks into place. The click may be felt or heard, then gently pull back on the boot to assure proper contact.

3.1L (VIN M) Engines
  1. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position, then disconnect the negative battery cable..
  2. Remove only one spark plug wire at a time to avoid mixing up the wires. Each must be returned to its original location. Note the position of the spark plug wires before removing them. The high energy in these ignition systems can cause induced voltages to fire in adjacent spark plug wires. For this reason, the factory engineers take care to position the wires to minimize -crossfire.- Wires should be returned to their exact locations and secured with whatever clips or loom components were originally installed.
  3. Spark plug boots tend to stick firmly to the spark plug insulator. DO NOT pull on the spark plug wire. Pull on the spark plug boot or heat shield only, twisting a half-turn to release the seal while removing. Do not pull on the spark plug wire or it may be damaged.
  4. Using the proper size spark plug socket, remove the plug from the cylinder head.

    Click image to see an enlarged view
    Fig. When removing the spark plug wires, pull on the boot, NOT on the wire itself


    Click image to see an enlarged view
    Fig. Use a socket and suitable extension . . .


    Click image to see an enlarged view
    Fig. . . . then remove the spark plug from the cylinder head
To install:
  1. Verify that the spark plug is clean, properly gapped and that the threads are lightly lubricated with clean engine oil.
  2. Be sure the plug threads smoothly into the cylinder head and is fully seated. Use a -thread chaser- if necessary to clean the threads in the cylinder head. Cross-threading or failing to fully seat the spark plug can cause overheating of the plug, exhaust blow-by, or thread damage. Follow the recommended torque specifications carefully. Some technicians will place a small piece of rubber tubing (like a piece of vacuum line) on the terminal end of the spark plug and use it to turn the plug, by hand. In this way, if the plug is not threaded properly, not enough torque can be placed on the plug to do any damage, especially on engines such as the 3.1L that have aluminum heads.
  3. Torque the spark plug to 11-15 ft. lbs. (15-20 Nm).
  4. Install the spark wire to the spark plug, making sure the connector engages the spark plug and the boot is fully seated.
3.4L (VIN E) Engine
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
  3. Remove the upper intake manifold.
  4. Remove only one spark plug wire at a time to avoid mixing up the wires. Each must be returned to its original location. Note the position of the spark plug wires before removing them. The high energy in these ignition systems can cause induced voltages to fire in adjacent spark plug wires. For this reason, the factory engineers take care to position the wires to minimize -crossfire.- Wires should be returned to their exact locations and secured with whatever clips or loom components were originally installed.
  5. Spark plug boots tend to stick firmly to the spark plug insulator. DO NOT pull on the spark plug wire. Pull on the spark plug boot or heat shield only, twisting a half-turn to release the seal while removing. Do not pull on the spark plug wire or it may be damaged.
  6. Using the proper size spark plug socket, remove the plug from the cylinder head.
To install:
  1. Verify that the spark plug is clean, properly gapped and that the threads are lightly lubricated with clean engine oil.
  2. Be sure the plug threads smoothly into the cylinder head and is fully seated. Use a -thread chaser- if necessary to clean the threads in the cylinder head. Cross-threading or failing to fully seat the spark plug can cause overheating of the plug, exhaust blow-by, or thread damage. Follow the recommended torque specifications carefully. Some technicians will place a small piece of rubber tubing (like a piece of vacuum line) on the end of the spark plug and use it to turn the plug, by hand. In this way, if the plug is not threaded properly, not enough torque can be placed on the plug to do any damage, especially on engines with aluminum heads such as the 3.4L.
  3. Torque the spark plug to 11-15 ft. lbs. (15-20 Nm).
  4. Install the spark wire to the spark plug, making sure the connector engages the spark plug and the boot is fully seated.
  5. Install the upper intake manifold.
3.4L Engine
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
  3. Remove the upper intake manifold.
  4. Remove only one spark plug wire at a time to avoid mixing up the wires. Each must be returned to its original location. Note the position of the spark plug wires before removing them. The high energy in these ignition systems can cause induced voltages to fire in adjacent spark plug wires. For this reason, the factory engineers take care to position the wires to minimize -crossfire.- Wires should be returned to their exact locations and secured with whatever clips or loom components were originally installed.
  5. Spark plug boots tend to stick firmly to the spark plug insulator. DO NOT pull on the spark plug wire. Pull on the spark plug boot or heat shield only, twisting a half-turn to release the seal while removing. Do not pull on the spark plug wire or it may be damaged.
  6. Using the proper size spark plug socket, remove the plug from the cylinder head.
To install:
  1. Verify that the spark plug is clean, properly gapped and that the threads are lightly lubricated with clean engine oil.
  2. Be sure the plug threads smoothly into the cylinder head and is fully seated. Use a -thread chaser- if necessary to clean the threads in the cylinder head. Cross-threading or failing to fully seat the spark plug can cause overheating of the plug, exhaust blow-by, or thread damage. Follow the recommended torque specifications carefully. Some technicians will place a small piece of rubber tubing (like a piece of vacuum line) on the end of the spark plug and use it to turn the plug, by hand. In this way, if the plug is not threaded properly, not enough torque can be placed on the plug to do any damage, especially on engines with aluminum heads such as the 3.4L.
  3. Torque the spark plug to 11-15 ft. lbs. (15-20 Nm).
  4. Install the spark wire to the spark plug, making sure the connector engages the spark plug and the boot is fully seated.
  5. Install the upper intake manifold.
3.5L (VIN H) Engine
This procedure requires the removal of the engine cosmetic/acoustic cover and the removal of the ignition coil assembly. This engine does not use spark plug wires. The ignition coils plug onto the spark plug tops.
Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. On the 3.5L engine, the spark plugs are located directly under the ignition coil -cassette-. No spark plug wires are used
  1. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position. The engine must be cool before removing the spark plugs. Attempting to remove the spark plugs from a hot engine may cause the plug threads to seize, causing damage to the cylinder head threads.
  2. Remove the ignition coil assembly.
  3. Remove the spark plug boots from the plugs using GM tool J 43094, or an equivalent tool. GM specifically warns against using pliers or other makeshift tools to remove the spark plug boots.
  4. Clean the spark plug recess area before removing the spark plugs. Failure to do so could result in engine damage because of dirt or foreign material entering the cylinder head, or by contamination of the cylinder head threads. The contaminated threads may prevent the proper seating of the new plug. Use a thread chaser to clean the threads of any contamination.
  5. Remove the spark plugs from the engine.
To install:
  1. Use only the spark plugs specified for use in this vehicle. Do not install spark plugs that are either hotter or colder than those specified for the vehicle. Installing spark plugs of another type can severely damage the engine.
  2. Check the gap of all new and reconditioned spark plugs before installation. The pre-set gaps may have changed during handling. Use a round feeler gauge to ensure an accurate check. Installing the spark plugs with the wrong gap can cause poor engine performance and may even damage the engine.
  3. Use care installing the spark plugs. Be sure the spark plugs thread smoothly into the cylinder heads and that the spark plug is fully seated. Cross-threading or failing to fully seat the spark plug can cause overheating of the plug, exhaust blow-by, or thread damage.
  4. Tighten the spark plugs to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).
  5. Install the spark plug boots to the ignition coil assembly.
  6. Install the ignition coil assembly.
3.8L (VIN 1 And K) Engines


Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. The cosmetic/acoustic engine cover must be removed for access to the spark plugs-3.8L engine
  1. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position, then disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. On the 3.8L (VIN K) engine, the cosmetic/acoustic engine cover, also called the fuel injector sight shield, must be removed. Remove this cover by first turning the tube/oil fill cap counter-clockwise from the valve rocker arm cover. Lift the fuel injector sight shield up at the front and slide the tab out of the engine bracket.
  3. Remove only one spark plug wire at a time to avoid mixing up the wires. Each must be returned to its original location. Note the position of the spark plug wires before removing them. The high energy in these ignition systems can cause induced voltages to fire in adjacent spark plug wires. For this reason, the factory engineers take care to position the wires to minimize -crossfire.- Wires should be returned to their exact locations and secured with whatever clips or loom components were originally installed.
  4. Spark plug boots tend to stick firmly to the spark plug insulator. DO NOT pull on the spark plug wire. Pull on the spark plug boot or heat shield only, twisting a half-turn to release the seal while removing. Do not pull on the spark plug wire or it may be damaged.
  5. Using the proper size spark plug socket, remove the plug from the cylinder head.
To install:
  1. Verify that the spark plug is clean, properly gapped and that the threads are lightly lubricated with clean engine oil.
  2. Be sure the plug threads smoothly into the cylinder head and is fully seated. Use a -thread chaser- if necessary to clean the threads in the cylinder head. Cross-threading or failing to fully seat the spark plug can cause overheating of the plug, exhaust blow-by, or thread damage. Follow the recommended torque specifications carefully. Some technicians will place a small piece of rubber tubing (like a piece of vacuum line) on the end of the spark plug and use it to turn the plug, by hand. In this way, if the plug is not threaded properly, not enough torque can be placed on the plug to do any damage.
  3. Torque the spark plug to 11-15 ft. lbs. (15-20 Nm).
  4. Install the spark wire to the spark plug, making sure the connector engages the spark plug and the boot is fully seated.
  5. On the 3.8L (VIN K) engine, install the cosmetic/acoustic cover. Insert the tab of the fuel injector sight shield under the engine bracket. Place the hole of the shield onto the oil fill neck of the valve rocker arm cover. Install the tube/oil fill cap onto the valve rocker arm cover and twist clockwise in order to lock.
3.8L Engine
  1. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position, then disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. On the 3.8L (VIN K) engine, the cosmetic/acoustic engine cover, also called the fuel injector sight shield, must be removed. Remove this cover by first turning the tube/oil fill cap counter-clockwise from the valve rocker arm cover. Lift the fuel injector sight shield up at the front and slide the tab out of the engine bracket.
  3. Remove only one spark plug wire at a time to avoid mixing up the wires. Each must be returned to its original location. Note the position of the spark plug wires before removing them. The high energy in these ignition systems can cause induced voltages to fire in adjacent spark plug wires. For this reason, the factory engineers take care to position the wires to minimize -crossfire.- Wires should be returned to their exact locations and secured with whatever clips or loom components were originally installed.
  4. Spark plug boots tend to stick firmly to the spark plug insulator. DO NOT pull on the spark plug wire. Pull on the spark plug boot or heat shield only, twisting a half-turn to release the seal while removing. Do not pull on the spark plug wire or it may be damaged.
  5. Using the proper size spark plug socket, remove the plug from the cylinder head.
To install:
  1. Verify that the spark plug is clean, properly gapped and that the threads are lightly lubricated with clean engine oil.
  2. Be sure the plug threads smoothly into the cylinder head and is fully seated. Use a -thread chaser- if necessary to clean the threads in the cylinder head. Cross-threading or failing to fully seat the spark plug can cause overheating of the plug, exhaust blow-by, or thread damage. Follow the recommended torque specifications carefully. Some technicians will place a small piece of rubber tubing (like a piece of vacuum line) on the end of the spark plug and use it to turn the plug, by hand. In this way, if the plug is not threaded properly, not enough torque can be placed on the plug to do any damage.
  3. Torque the spark plug to 11-15 ft. lbs. (15-20 Nm).
  4. Install the spark wire to the spark plug, making sure the connector engages the spark plug and the boot is fully seated.
  5. On the 3.8L (VIN K) engine, install the cosmetic/acoustic cover. Insert the tab of the fuel injector sight shield under the engine bracket. Place the hole of the shield onto the oil fill neck of the valve rocker arm cover. Install the tube/oil fill cap onto the valve rocker arm cover and twist clockwise in order to lock.

This details will help.
Thanks.

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