Saturday, July 7, 2012

Yamaha Waverunner has Starting issues

1999 XL 1200 Yamaha Waverunner will not Rev up in water and not start right.It takes time to get started.It feels like fuel problem.

WHAT CAN CAUSE THIS?

To confirm this get the Fuel pressure checked.For your model waverunner the fuel pressure should be 125 PSI on all the 3 cylinders.
If the fuel pressure is less then that its problem with fuel pump or its dirty carbs.
Maybe fuel pump needs to be replaced if its checked faulty or both fuel pump and carbs needs to be replaced.Also its quite possible that internal parts are dirty and needs inspection.
On some cases its faulty Catalytic converter.On some models the Cat converter is been replaced with D-plate and chip.

WHAT WILL BE ON MY MODEL WAVERUNNER?

On most waverunner it uses catalytic converter.but if you are a second owner then may be the previous owner noticed the same problem before with catalytic converter and replaced it with D-plate and chip.
To confirm that you need to check it on your Boat..

OK,HOW TO REACH  FUEL PUMP AND CARBS ON YAMAHA WAVERUNNER?


  • There are in total three(3) Fuel pumps on your vehicle.
  • They are located on the backs of each carb.
  • 3 carbs and 3 fuel pumps. 
  • Fuel pump are the pulse type design, They are very similar to a chain saw design. 
TO REACH THE  FUEL PUMPS,

You have to get down the carburetor.For that 
  • Remove the exhaust system to get down to the carbs. Its a difficult task to do-it-yourself but there is no way around that. Getting the pipe off is not that easy. It will take time to disassemble this parts.So dont loose your patience.The front half isn't too bad. 
  • You will have to use a 14mm swivel socket.The socket will be required to loosen the bolts where the pipe goes into the exhaust manifold. 
  • Also you may have to flex the hull out to get the flex socket in there. 
  • Please be noted there is also a very small water bypass hose connected to the bottom of that front section of pipe just before it makes the 90 degree bend to go across the front of the engine.
  •  The pipe will not get loose from the hose fitting because  there is a tab under the hose clamp that should keep it from spinning on the hose as you loosen it.So remove the hose clamp to get the pipe free from hose.
  • The front and rear pipe also needs to be separated.There are also two additional hose clamps under the black connector between the front and rear pipe sections on the right. 
  • Loosen the exposed hose clamps and slide that black connector forward onto the front pipe, then loose the two hose clamps on the grey connector. 
  • Remember the position of the hose clamps on the grey connector.The hose clamps should be fit in that same way. Fitted reverse way will not help.So before removing hose clamp mark the position. The black connector is molded with clearance for them to be installed in one position only. so there is no confusion for fitting hose clamps on black connector.
NOTE:-Not to cut the grey connector when removing the pipes. It is easy to do if you are not careful. 

Once you reach till this step,ow you have to remove the trunk ,For that ........
  • Loosen the clamp for the water lock box, (at the bulkhead on the lower left, and remove the trunk from under the rear seat.)
  • Grab the water lock box and slide it as far backwards as you can in the hull. 
NOTE:-- No need to remove it, just slide it back to give you room to move the back of the pipe in the engine compartment. 

  • No need to remove the connector out.Just leave the black connector on the water lock box, disconnecting it only from the pipe. 
  • Make sure you completely remove the STAY behind the 3rd cylinder for the rear pipe. 
  • You will need it out of the way to get the pipe out. 
  • Also, there are 2 bolts holding a plate bolted to the bottom of the rear pipe section that are directly alongside cylinders 2 and 3. 
HELPFUL HINT:   The key to getting the tail section of that pipe out is to lift the front of it, then work on sliding the bottom across the boat, above the driveshaft but below the electrical box, to the right side of the hull, then lifting it out. 
Installing is not difficult.It goes back in the reverse way.
The procedure above is tried before and its properly worked.
If you try any other method, you are going to end up either pulling the cyl head or the plate off the bottom of the pipe. If you do it this way, it will come out without doing any additional reassembly. 
But without forget  remove the two STAYS at the cylinder heads too, Take them off the heads and pipe both.

OK,BUT WHERE IS D-PLATE AND CHIP OR CAT CONVERTER?

While you have the pipe off, you need to inspect few parts.Here you can see this parts.
  • Take a look into the back section and inspect the catalyzer, unless someone has already replaced it.
  • First, make sure if there is converter, or a D plate.
  • If there is Catalytic converter then , look for cracks in the honeycomb or separation around the outer perimeter of the honeycomb. 
If you notice any major or minor signs of separation or cracking is impending doom. I strongly urge you to replace Cat Converter  now with a D plate and chip or similar while you have it apart. 

But if you dont want to do so and use the Cat converter then for new Cat converter or another Rebuilt converter  it will cost you  close to $700 to $1200.Branded parts cost more but they give more better performance and last long.

HOW EXACTLY THE D-PLATE WORKS AND WHY IS THE CHIP USED?

The plate is designed by various companies to be used to replace the catalytic converter.
The cat removal plate has the exhaust exit centrally located to keep the velocity of the exiting exhaust gasses. This keeps the proper back pressure thorughout the pipe and helps pull the most potential out of the stock exhaust system.
The catalytic converter creates lots of heat in the engine compartment.

The removal of the catalytic converter greatly reduces the heat inside the engine compartment and allows you to be able to use aftermarket spark arresters with better results. The aftermarket spark arrester are not recommended unless the added heat from the catalytic converter is removed.
NOTE:  Once the catalytic converter is removed, you must use the sensor chip.The sensor chip comes with the D-plate. This sensor chip sends the right information to the C.D.I. control unit and makes it believe the temperature is where it should be even though the exhaust is running much cooler.So this helps is maintaining the  temperature and gives you better performance and mileage.

WHAT WILL BE THE PART COST FOR D-PLATE & CHIP AND FROM WHERE TO BUY PARTS?

The  D plate with chip is somewhere between $110 to $140.Its a complete kit which you get at parts store.Many branded companies deals with parts.The cost all  depending on who's kit you get. They all work the same, so if you can find the cheap one, go for that.
Once you get down to the carbs, make sure the vacuum lines are connected and not split or cut. Also, take a quick peak at the rear crank seals. Use a flash light and make sure you haven't blown one or both of them out.

I AM NOTICING LOW MILEAGE ISSUES,WILL CRACKED OR FAULTY CRACKED CONVERTER CAUSE THIS PROBLEM?

Yes absolutely it will cause such problem.In some cases its seen that cat converter gets cracked a bit and in some major issues the converter gets cracked in to to two pieces.


WHAT DO YOU SUGGEST SHOULD I REPLACE CAT CONVETER WITH ANOTHER CONVERTER OR WITH D-PLATE AND CHIP?

I suggest replacing it with D-plate and chip.That will be easy and less costly option and make the replacing task much easy and you will notice difference in mileage the MPH will increase.


This details will help.
Thanks.


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