Friday, October 26, 2012

Troubleshooting CPU Overheating Problem on Motherboard

CPU Overheats on Desktop Motherboard.

System turn On,but shuts down in few minutes or in few seconds.These is due to issue with CPU overheating.

The system shuts down to save further damage to the board.

The CPU needs certain voltages to perform.Every CPU needs different voltage as per the system motherboard.
The required voltage should no exceed or decrease as per required voltages.
To what voltage is required for CPU.Search on the CPU manufacturer website.
For example in case of intel brand CPU.You can search the CPU details on ark.intel.com website.
In case of Intel CPU go to these website and insert the CPU number mentioned on it and you will get complete detail about that particular CPU.
In that details see what voltages are required by CPU.

=======================
REASONS FOR CPU OVERHEATING:----


REASON 1) Faulty PWM chip.

Solution 1) PWM chip drives high gate signal to high side mosfet. Due to these the Supplied VID core voltage to CPU exceeds then required voltage.
For example if CPU needs 1.5 volt to operate and PWM chip is supplying more then 1.5 volt then CPU will overheat and system will shut down,when comes to certain saturation level.
So test PWM channel voltages.If its found excess,then replace PWM chip.
=======================

REASON 2) Faulty CPU Fan or dirty HEAT SINK.

Solution 2) If CPU fan is not running at all,then try with another working CPU fan and see if its running.If the new CPU fan is also not running then its problem with CPU fan connector.You will have to jumper the +5 volts to CPU fan connector by other +5 volt port on motherboard.But CPU fan connector getting faulty is very very rare chance.Its near to nil possibility of CPU connector getting faulty.On most of cases its either faulty CPU fan or not connected properly CPU fan Connector on motherboard.
But if CPU fan is running but its very slow to run,then replace CPU fan.Because CPU fan is not running properly or not running At all the CPU heats and then shuts OFF the system.
On some cases the CPU fan is not the issue but problem is related to dust getting clogged and collected into rails of CPU fan Heatsink .Just clean the heat sink with soft brush and see,that will help.
=====================================

REASON 3) No thermal paste on CPU.

Solution 3) Thermal paste is the cooling agent type paste.It never lets the chips to get overheated.Please dont exceed the thermal paste.It should be applied in limit.If you exceed the thermal paste and if the paste is having inductance,then it can short the circuit board.Just check if there is thermal paste applied properly on top side of CPU processor.Handle processor very carefully.Its costly part and also very delicate.Apply thermal paste on top of Process ,if the old paste is totally vanished or very dried.Then let the new thermal paste get dried for few minutes.Then place CPU fan assembly on CPU socket.Connect its Fan connector to board and see if CPU still overheats.

===================================

REASON 4) FAULTY CPU.

Solution 4) Its very rare CPU getting faulty.But dont ignore these troubleshooting step.On some cases,when nothing is helping,then issue is with faulty CPU.Try with another spare working CPU.If the system runs with another CPU and that too without getting overheated then problem was previous old CPU.

Please note:--- Any CPU will not work on Any motherboard.Every CPU and Every motherboard has its compatibility.You have to first confirm that these CPU is compatible with these motherboard.These you can confirm on CPU manufacturers site or you can get help from other hardware engineers.
If you use Non-compatible CPU on your motherboard,then working CPU will not Support on your motherboard.
===============================================


In case of CPU overheating Problem.Once you confirm these possibilities.You will mostly trace out the problem.It can be any one of these possibility causing CPU overheating.These basics will help you.

========================================

If there are any other possibility that can cause CPU overheating,then please don't hesitate to share your views here to these article.These will help others who follow these article,for troubleshooting CPU overheating problem.


More suggested help links :--------------


Troubleshoot Dead Motherboard

Troubleshooting NO Display Problem on Motherboard
http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2012/10/troubleshooting-no-display-problem-on.html




Troubleshooting NO Display Problem on Motherboard

Power ON But NO Display On Motherboard

No Display on Desktop Motherboard.

In these case before you begin your troubleshooting,First test RAM and SMPS.

If the RAM is faulty then motherboard will turn ON,but there will have no display.It can be faulty RAM  or issue with the module slot in which the RAM chip is inserted.Clean that Module with IPA liquid and dry/wipe it with dry tissue or you can use ear bud.
Take care no dust get into the module holes or remains on the slot pins.Clean the Module properly,then re-insert the RAM chips and see if RAM is getting detected.

Other then AM other thing to get confirmed is SMPS. If SMPS is faulty or not giving properly voltages,then also mother board will turn ON,but have no display.If SMPS is complete dead,then mother board will not turn at all.

NOW,once you are confirmed that SMPS and RAM is good,then please follow other fault find troubleshooting:-----

THE MOST COMMON REASON AND SOLUTION  FOR POWER ON BUT NO DISPLAY:---

============================
REASON 1) Faulty 32K RTC Crystal for ICH.

Solution 1)

Test RTC crystal frequency. If its less then 32Khz, then it has to be replaced.Please note frequency can be ok, if its +/- 10.So if it shows 22 Khz or 42 Khz then its considered to be ok.
If the frequency is very low replace RTC and if frequency is very high,then replace it.

========================
REASON 2) Faulty PWM section.

Solution 2)

In these case complete PWM section needs to be checked.In PWM  section there is PWM chip,PWM channel filter coils, High side and low side mosfets,mosfet driver chip.
ON some motherboards the mosftet driver chip is integrated into the PWM chip,these can be confirmed once you get the datasheet of PWM chip.Just google the chip number of PWM  chip and these will give you idea,if its only PWM chip or its integrated with mosfet driver chip.

========================
REASON 3) Faulty I/O Chip.

Solution 3)

Get the datasheet for Super I/O chip and test its volt IN and Volt OUT voltages.Also test its Power Good voltages.If the voltages are not satisfactory,then replace Super I/O chip.

========================
REASON 4) Faulty MCH or its power supply Mosfets.

Solution 4)

Test capacitors for ground on base plate of MCH. The non-polar capacitors should only be ground on one side and not both sides.
If you feel any of the capacitor is ground on both sides,then it can be the issue with MCH.In that case,also test the voltages to the capacitor.The non-polar capacitors should give minimum 1.2 volts reading at one side and no reading at other side.If there is no reading,then it clears problem with MCH. In that case the MCH BGA chip needs to be removed and re-balled by re-balling procedure.
Beside MCH there is a power supply mosfet,these mosfets are to supply power to the functioning of MCH. Also check the voltages at mosfet. The minimum voltage out should be at least 1.2volts.,If less that 1.2 volts is coming out,then its issue with MCH power supply mosfet.It has to be removed from board and tested out board.Most probably replacing the mosfet will help.

There are two types of mosfets. NPN and PNP.
Let it be NPN or PNP minimum 240 ohms to maximum 960 ohms should be there while testing mosfets. If the reading is less then 240 ohms then replacing the mosfet is advisable.

If the Power supply mosfet is tested good and non-polar capacitors near and on base plate of MCH are tested good,then its rarely a chance of faulty MCH.
If the MCH is getting overheated and very hot to touch,then,try re-balling MCH and these should help.

===========================
REASON 5) Faulty ICH or its power supply Regulators.

Solution 5)

Like MCH have mosfet for power supply. ICH have regulators for power supply.
But on some motherboards there is mosfet in case regulators.So don't get confused.
You can say,some motherboard have mosfets and some have regulators.Its also board manufacturer,what he prefers good,he will use that semiconductor.
Now,if in case the ICH is getting overheat and very hot to touch.Then first check the power supply regulator near ICH,if that regulator is giving output voltage of less then 1.2 volts,then its considered to be faulty.
If the regulator voltage is checked ok,then check frequency for ICH RTC. Its 32 Khz RTC crystal.If the frequency generated by RTC is not giving satisfactory results,then it has to be replaced.
If the power supply regulator for ICH and RTC is checked ok and still the ICH is overheating,then it has to be removed and ICH BGA chip has to be re-balled by re-balling process.

============================
REASON 6) Faulty RAM power supply section

Solution 6)

Test the RAM power supply section.It depends on type of Motherboard.On some motherboard,there is only one driver chip to control ram power supply section.On some board there is just an OPAM to control RAM power supply section.But basically there is  mosfet. One high side mosfet and one zener diode.The zener diode to supply constant voltage and it grounds if voltage exceeds then required.But if too heavy voltage comes then zener diode gets short and grounds all voltage to save major short circuit to the motherboard.
And there is one driver chip to control/ drive mosfets and one filter coil to supply required voltage to ram module.

The voltage actually depends.
For DDR Ram module the voltage is 2.5V. For SD ram the voltage is 3.3V. For DDR 2 ram the voltage is
1.8V. For DDR3 RAM the voltage is 1.5V to 1.35V.

So as per per these voltages the voltage depends on Ram Power supply coil.
If RAM power supply section is checked ok and still RAM is not getting detected,then its faulty MCH. Because RAM section is controlled by MCH.

==============================
REASON 7) Problem with BIOS or FAULTY BIOS Chip.

Solution 7) To confirm if Bios is working or not,test the A49 pin of PCI slot.On these pin the frequency has to be checked.Please note that frequency can only be checked by Frequency testing meter.The frequency has to be tested on Hertz mode.That is Hz mode on meter.If the bios is ok,then meter will first show very high frequency and then get stable at 40Mhz.
For example the frequency will first rise to more then 250 Mhz to and above that and then slowly settle down at 40Mhz. If the frequency is no rising to high and just showing very low then its issue related to BIOS.

The other way to confirm its BIOS problem is testing by DEBUG card.
These card has to be inserted in PCI slot.On DEBUG card there is IRDY LED.These LED should blink when system starts up for few seconds,then it remains steady ON.If IRDY LED is not blinking at all while system start up,then its faulty or corrupted BIOS.
In these case re-flashing the BIOS chip helps to resolve the problem.

==============================
REASON 8) A Faulty VGA port

Solution 8) VGA port is the port where you connect VGA cable from monitor to CPU.If there is VGA port in motherboard is faulty then there will be no display problem.

So to confirm the problem with VGA Test the First square pin of VGA port on circuit port.
These 1st pin is square in shape and other pins will be round shape.The 1st pin is power supply pin and its the main power IN pin.These pin Intakes 5 volts and VGA port starts functioning.If these 1st pin is not receiving +5 volts on it then,the issue is there.
You can apply jumper to these 1st pin of VGA port,by other +5 volt point.Like from USB port or from LPT port.

=============================
REASON 9) Faulty Clock Synthesizer chip or its RTC.

Solution 9) Clock synthesizer generates frequency to all the other sections of mother board.If the clock synthesizer is not generating frequency then,other sections will not work.In that case,as per the chip number of clock synthesizer chip.Google the datasheet for clock synthesizer chip and test the voltages for clock synthesizer chip.If the voltages are not satisfactory,then its issue with clock synthesizer chip.
Other possibility can be faulty RTC for clock synthesizer.
Clock synthesizer chip has RTC crystal of 14.318 Mhz.Test the frequency with frequency meter,set on Hz mode.The frequency can + or - 10.For example,if the frequency shown 5Mhz or 6Mhz on out pin of RTC then its OK.Or if the frequency shown is 20Mhz or 24Mhz then its OK.

If the frequency is very less like 1MHZ or 3Mhz or very high like 50Mhz or 60Mhz then its faulty RTC.It has to be replaced.


============================

Most probably these are the possibilities that can cause power ON but NO Display problem.
Once you check and confirm these faults,you will trace and locate the cause of problem.


If there are any more possibilities for no display,other then these possibilities,please dont hesitate to share your views here.It will help other,who goes through these Article.

Thanks.

For more Help and Understating,its recommended to go through these suggested Links:----------


Troubleshoot Dead Motherboard
http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2012/10/troubleshoot-dead-motherboard.html



Troubleshoot Dead Motherboard

Desktop Motherboard Goes Dead.

In these case there are few Possibilities.That can cause such problems.

First of all before beginning your test,please confirm that your SMPS is working.
SMPS is called Power supply.


If the Smps is not working properly,please try with another working Smps and see if all goes well.

If the Smps is working and in good condition and still the issue is same as before" MOTHERBOARD DEAD" then follow the solutions mentioned below.


REASONS  & SOLUTIONS FOR WHY MOTHER BOARD IS DEAD:------


REASON 1)  ICH  RTC crystal is open.Near ICH there is 32K RTC.If these RTC goes open,the motherboard will not turn ON.


Solution 1) If RTC for ICH is open,then Remove the RTC and Short its two connected point on motherboard track by tweezer and then see,if mother board starts by shorting the 32K RTC,then its faulty related to RTC Crystal.
The RTC has to be replaced.


REASON 2) Faulty CMOS Battery.

Solution 2) Test the CMOS battery,its a silver color steel body round battery.If these battery goes weak or looses its charge then,these battery has to be replaced.Replacing these battery will solve the problem.


REASON 3) No ATX  Power Good voltage ( + 5 Volts) on Super I/O Chip.


Solution 3) Jumper the Pin of Grey wire SMPS molex & ATX power pin of Super I/O Chip.


REASON 4) No +5 Volt on ON/OFF switch.
Please Note:--- ON/OFF switch is connected on PSON Pin of Super I/O chip.

Solution 4) Jumper the +5 Volt pin of SMPS power connector to the positive pin of ON/OFF switch.


REASON 5) SMPS Connector molex is ground.

Solution 5) In these case replace faulty capacitors.If any of capacitor gets ground,all connecting capacitor will show ground.In that case the capacitors needs to be checked one by one.The capacitor has to be removed from board and checked,to confirm if its dead/open/short or working.

SMPS connector getting ground is possible but very rare.
In these case there are few possible parts to be checked.
First there are few components which accepts power from SMPS connector.
The Components Like:  RAM Power Supply Chip,PWM chip, Regulators for ICH, Regulators for MCH, PWM section High side Mosfets,Ram Power Section Mosfet,Operationa; Amplifier( OPAM),etc etc.

So including capacitors, if all or Any of  these components become ground then automatically the SMPS connector will be ground at its positive PINS.

REASON 6) A faulty Super I/O Chip.

Solution 6) Get the datasheet for Super I/O chip.
If the voltage IN,Voltage OUT,power good voltages are not satisfactory,then its issue with super I/O chip and it has to be replaced.


===============

When the Desktop motherboard gets dead,at these time these are most possible faults and reasons that can cause no power to motherboard.Testing and inspecting these possibilities will help you to confirm the fault and you can get the problem repaired in that way.

If i miss any other reason and solution for Dead Motherboard issue,then please dont hesitate to share these here.
So that all others can get more benefit of these motherboard troubleshooting article.
Thanks.


Wednesday, October 24, 2012

Battery and Bake light ON

Mitsubishi Montero Brake and Battery Warning lights ON.

Testing shows Faulty Alternator causing these problem.

NOW after replacing the alternator the vehicle is not just just one click when key is turned on to start.

SYMPTOMS NOTICED:-----------

  • Battery and Brake warning light ON.
  • With new alternator vehicle just clicks and no cranking.
  • Bad Smell or rubber or belt burning.



Troubleshooting Details:----


If the alternator is aftermarket, there is a good chance it is your problem. Mitsubishi model does not get along well with aftermarket alternators as they usually last from a few days to a few months at best.
That's the difference between aftermarket and genuine branded parts.
Aftermarket parts are not bad parts,but there performance is weak as compared to original parts.

About the smell issue:---
It can be related to alternator or the other thing to be concerned about is the front camshaft seal.
These crankshaft seal is known to drip straight down onto the alternator, and especially in the case of aftermarket units, causing them to fail (in addition to smell) which is getting noticed.


Currently with no cranking, we can probably suspect that the battery was run down from the alternator failing.
Get the battery recharged or try with another working battery.OR the other option is to jump start the vehicle and see,if its running with Alternator and are the warning lights coming up on dash,which were coming up previously.



As per the details mentioned,it clearly indicates that problem is related to battery getting low and loosing its charge.The battery has lost its charge.Because before replacing the Alternator the vehicle was getting started with Battery and Brake warning lights on Dash.


It sounds like it could just be a case of a failed battery or even a loose connection on the battery cables (either at battery or alternator which is replaced).

If the battery is severely depleted, it will run on alternator power however the charging current will cook the battery (literally) and you will get a pungent burning odor as it pushes out hydrogen.

Getting both battery and alternator retested will help.

Thanks.


Battery and brake Warning lights on Dash
http://alltypesofpartsreplacing.blogspot.com/2012/10/battery-and-brake-warning-lights-on-dash.html


Car battery loosing its charge overnight?

http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/11/car-battery-loosing-its-charge.html


Car makes clicking noise?

http://howtobyme.blogspot.com/2011/11/car-makes-clicking-noise.html



What are the possibilities for Clicking noise in car?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2011/11/what-are-possibilities-for-clicking.html


Vehicle Makes Clicking Sound While Taking turns?

http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/12/vehicle-makes-clicking-sound-while.html

ABS light comes on and Car makes Grinding noise?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2012/01/abs-light-comes-on-and-car-makes.html


Radio and A/C cutting OFF on Mitsubishi Eclipse

Random Electrical Malfunction on Mitsubishi

POSSIBILITIES:---
EITHER ITS ISSUE WITH BATTERY OR CHARGING SYSTEM(ALTERNATOR) OR ITS FAULTY IGNITION SWITCH.


The problem noticed like ...............

while driving , the radio goes out, the heat/AC fan stops, the headlights and dash lights dim and the dash warning lights come on then go off then it all works again.

These problems are random and not permanent,someday all will work properly and suddenly next day all problem returns.


Troubleshooting :------------

First of all in such cases please notice that, while driving, does any warning lights come on when the rest of the problems are not occurring? Specifically the Brake, Battery, or ABS lights?


Do you have any battery related issues at all?
How old is the battery?
When was battery last time replaced?

IF the battery is very old,then it has to be replaced.Batteries when get old it looses its capacity to hold the charge and voltage drops.Due to these certain malfunction issues occurs.

BUT,if there is no such warning lights coming up on dash and battery is very much new and holding its charge properly then...............

FURTHER Troubleshooting:---------

AS its mentioned that electrical system gets random malfunction,like radio getting off or cutting off,A/C suddenly stops working,Headlights getting dim etc etc.


As per our garage repair experience, the problem indicates towards a faulty ignition switch.

I WILL EXPLAIN HOW?

The complete issue is related to random power drop.

The ignition switches in these( Mitsubishi)  cars are notorious for failure and can have identical symptoms to those you describe.

When the contacts become loose or burnt inside the ignition switch, it can cause random power drops. When these power drops occur, the most notable that people identify are the AC and radio cutting out. If the drop occurs for more than a split second, it becomes nearly the same as the key being turned off, just with the engine typically remaining running. Because of this, you will often notice warning lights on the dash and even dimming of interior and exterior lighting as the charging current cuts out with it and the lighting drops to 12V (from 14V normally).


NOW these concept changes if the brake/battery or ABS lights were consistently occurring prior. The reason for this is if the alternator is failing, you will often see these lights occur just prior to a circuit failure event like those you are experiencing.
The reasons we can fairly safely exclude this issue are that it is not consistent (sometimes the lights don't come on first), the radio is not typically affected, and the AC fan will change pitch but won't normally cut out entirely.

These confirms that the charging system OK and it just being the ignition switch like we normally see.

As per our garage repair experience these switches are extremely common to fail on this era Mitsubishi, and specifically on the Eclipse/Galant  frequently (as opposed to Lancer/Outlander switch failures that more often make it difficult to start).

The ignition switch will cost you about $50 at any dealership.

FOR REPLACING IGNITION SWITCH:---

These switches are easy to repair.You will need some screw drivers.

  1. You will have to remove the steering column.The steering column cover is held on by Philips screws going up through the bottom. 
  2. Now once the screws all removed, the top and bottom halves of the column covers will unsnap from each other.
  3. Once the steering column is exposed, the ignition switch is on the left side of the column, directly behind the cylinder where the key goes it. 
  4. Now unplug the  large six pin connector aiming forward.Just pull it back to unplug the connector. 
  5. The switch is held in with a screw and then it can be slid out and a new switch slid into it's place. The screw holding it in requires a very small screw driver to access; if you do not have one, you can remove the lower dash panel that is in the way, which is also held on with Philips screws. 
  6. This will gain you more access.

But if you have small screw driver,then no need to remove lower dash panel.

At this point you are going to want to replace that switch and re-evaluate from there.


Please note,that if you have any kind of battery related issues then ignition switch is not faulty.The battery related problems like,no start,engine cranks but no start,battery warning light remaining steady on dash,battery is very old,battery not charging,or battery discharging overnight, etc etc.
Knowing that your battery connections are all tight, and you've had no other battery issues then its related to issue with ignition switch.

Get it checked.

These details will help.
Thanks.



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http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2011/11/car-alternator-making-noise.html

               

Car Alternator Working Intermittently?

Car Alternator Bearing Makes Grinding noise?

How to Inspect Alternator Drive Belt?

How to replace Alternator Drive Belt?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2011/12/how-to-replace-alternator-drive-belt.html

Car battery loosing its charge overnight?

http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/11/car-battery-loosing-its-charge.html

Battery and brake Warning lights on Dash
http://alltypesofpartsreplacing.blogspot.com/2012/10/battery-and-brake-warning-lights-on-dash.html

2001 Chevrolet Tracker: Headlights and Dash lights Pulsating?

http://whoisbyme.blogspot.in/2012/06/2001-chevrolet-tracker-headlights-and.html





Sunday, October 21, 2012

Dodge Coolant Temperature Sensor

Vehicle details

Make: Dodge
Model: RAM 1500 4x2
Engine: 3.9l


ECT sensor on a 2001 Dodge Ram pickup

It is located near the a/c compressor.Its bit difficult to see and locate.

Carefully  look at the intake manifold, it is located on the intake directly behind the alternator. Right where the heater hose is. Follow the wiring down to the sensor.
The space room to get the sensor out is very less.You need to get the Alternator off,if there is problem in removing the ECT out.



See the help diagram shown below:---

coolant temperature sensor





see below more help details and diagrams to get Engine coolant temperature sensor out.


Carefully see,
It is located directly behind the alternator.
To access the temperature sensor  you will need to remove the air cleaner assembly to see it. Look closely behind the alternator to see it

Procedure to replace the ECT:-----


Partially drain cooling system. Refer toCooling.
Remove air cleaner assembly.
Disconnect electrical connector from sensor

dodge ECT


  1. Please Note :---
    Engines with air conditioning: 

    When removing the connector from sensor, do not pull directly on wiring harness. Fabricate an L-shaped hook tool from a coat hanger (approximately eight inches long) Place the hook part of tool under the connector for removal. The connector is snapped onto the sensor. It is not equipped with a lock type tab.
    Remove sensor from intake manifold
    INSTALLATION
    Install sensor.
    Tighten to 11 N·m (8 ft. lbs.) torque.
    Connect electrical connector to sensor. The sensor connector is symmetrical (not indexed) It can be installed to the sensor in either direction.
    Install air cleaner assembly.
    Replace any lost engine coolant.


These details will help.

Thanks.


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How to test Engine coolant temperature sensor?

Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Operation?...


Faulty coolant level sensor

http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/10/faulty-coolant-level-sensor.html

Coolant Level Sensor on Audi A4?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2011/11/coolant-level-sensor-on-audi-a4.html


GMC Sonoma Stalls and idles low

The problem is related to Faulty EGR valve.


First of all in such cases if your check engine light is on then there is a code that needs to be scanned,this could be related to the problem here.Anytime a check engine light comes on this means there is a problem that needs to be checked into.



On most of such cases the problem is noticed due to egr valve that is partially stuck open as this will lower the idle slightly and may stall out the engine.

In case of faulty egr valve the engine will idle slightly rough and possibly cause the truck to shake.

On GMC sonoma egr valve,it is located just in front of your engine throttle body and right in front of the upper radiator hose where it connects to the top of your engine.

Another faulty part can be  idle air control motor
That can also cause the low idle and stall.

Visually see if there is any kind of  carbon build up in the throttle body bore where the throttle plate is,if you see then get the throttle system cleaned.That carbon build up can cause restricted air flow into the engine at idle and can also cause this.

Now to start your problem troubleshooting,first  check by removing the air intake over the top of the throttle body,then take a cloth with some carb cleaner or brake cleaner on it and wipe out the throttle bore with the throttle plate open as best a s possible.Then see if it idles normally and if the stalling is gone.

If it is not then the idle air control motor and Egr valve will need tested with a tester and a scan tool,if found faulty it will need replaced.

Most likely this will either be carbon build up in the throttle body,or a faulty idle air control motor or egr valve.

Get these possibilities checked,these will help.
Thanks.


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Where is the EGR feedback sensor located on 2004 Ford Explorer ?

http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/12/where-is-egr-feedback-sensor-located-on.html



GMC Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve Replacing?

http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/12/gmc-idle-air-control-iac-valve.html



Tuesday, October 16, 2012

Central locking not working

AUDI A6 Central locking Not Working



the very first first thing to check are all the fuses.
The fuses located  in drivers side dash board panel.

If all fuses checked ok, then the next place to check is central locking control module, it is located under the carpet on the passenger side front foot well carpet. These control module controls both central locking and windows.
On many of such cases these module is  known to get wet and play up.

If it is wet then you have a water leak which is likely to be from around the pollen filter housing area.
Stop the water to enter that module. Clean and dry up the module and see if that helps, or else the module needs to be replaced.

Many a times water gets collected under front seat's and water needs to be  drained and  central locking module needs to be dried to confirm if its working after that.


For Same exact issue
VW and Audi models seem to have a common problem of plenum chamber flooding due to bad drainage design.There was also recall released by these manufactures.It was free part replacement recall in case of such problems faced by customers.

Get in contact with your vehicle dealer.

Please note there is plastic box, under front passenger carpet, take out, unplug, open clean with spray,also remove dust and water from electric parts, put together,and recheck.

In many such cases it helped.

These details will help.
Thanks.


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Remote will not unlock Rear door on GMC Yukon? 
http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/12/remote-will-not-unlock-rear-door-on-gmc.html 

Door locks or windows not working on car?
http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/07/door-locks-or-windows-not-working-on.html



Monday, October 15, 2012

How to reset Oil Light On Car

Oil Light Reset As per Car Brands.

The Reset for Chevy, Cadillac,Ford,GM cars,Pontiac,Toyota


Oil warning light comes up on dash ----------

There is a reason why these warning lights comes up on dash.
These warning light indicates the driver to check the oil level in the car.
If the oil level gets low,the low oil warning light comes up on dash.On some cases its faulty oil level sensor.These sensor actually detects the oil level in the reservoir and signals the system about the oil level.But sometimes even if the oil level is full the oil warning light comes up.In that cases it can be issue with oil level sensor.At that time first the sensor needs to be cleaned and then checked.Sometimes cleaning the sensor helps to clear the low oil warning light.Sometime its loose oil level sensor connector.Removing and reconnecting the connector helps.

But on some cases the oil level is full and oil level sensor and its connector is good and still the warning light blinks.

OR else the oil warning light will not shut off even after changing the oil.

In that cases the System reset procedure has to be tried to reset the oil warning light on Dash.

Every car brand its own procedure to reset these warning lights.
On some car brands and model these procedure is very similar.

The Oil light Reset procedure mentioned below are tried procedures at our Auto repair garage on various cars of our customers.

OIL LIGHT RESET FOR 2006 Chevy Express Vehicle:----

Oil Light Reset Procedure For Pontiac Grand AM Vehicle:----


NOTE:--- The procedure mentioned below is same for Chevy and Pontiac Car models:-----

It is also mentioned in Owners manual of the vehicle.

The engine oil light reset procedure is as follows:----

1. Insert the Key in the ignition then turn the key to ON  position.
Please Note:--- The key should be on ON position and not the Engine start position.The engine movement Should be off.
2. Once that is done,Now completely press and release the accelerator pedal slowly 3 times quickly in five seconds. Don't take more then 5 seconds and don't press more then 3 times.
3. Once you complete the second step properly,the Engine light will start flashing.If the Change Engine Oil light flashes for five seconds, the system is reset.
4. Once these reset is Done,Turn the ignition  key to LOCK Position.

Remove the Key Out and Wait for 2 minutes.Then Re-insert Key and Turn to Run Position and see if the Oil Warning Light is Off or its still Flashing.
If the change engine oil light comes back on when you start your vehicle, the engine oil life system has not reset. Repeat the procedure. If it still does not reset, then its confirm problem with Oil System parts.Its oil level sensor or its connector,or wrong oil used or issue with oil pump or oil filter.

All these basic components needs to be checked,tested and inspected to confirm the Fault.

==============

On some Chevy Car models there is a small Push button Near Steering Wheel or near Dashboard Panel.That Push button has Small oil/gas logo on it.Once the oil is changed,the Oil light should reset.But if the oil Light is not getting OFF then press these small button for 5 to 10 seconds.The Oil light will reset and warning Light will turn OFF.
If on your car model,there is such push button with Oil/Gas Logo on it,then try pressing it to reset the oil warning Light.

Please Avoid Pressing these push button with Oil level Low or very Less.
If the System gets reset with very low oil and you continue driving with less oil in the reservoir then major engine related issues can occur.

=====================

OIL LEVEL RESET FOR FORD EXPLORER

On ford vehicles there is a "Trip /Reset" button.
Once these "Trip/Reset" Button is pressed the System will Enter the Menu.Here you get a option to select.You have to press Forward arrow button and Select " Setup Menu Hold Reset" option.

Once these option is displayed on your Display screen.Then just press the "Trip/Reset" button Again for 2 to 3 seconds.Once you do these,another message will be displayed on the screen." Reset For System Check".
Once you see these message displayed,release the Trip/Reset Button and Again Press it quickly.
Now these time the screen will display  "100% oil reset" message on screen.
So then release the " Trip /Reset" button now.


Please Note:--- If you don't fill/change oil and just press these Trip/Reset button to reset oil warning light,then many a times system gets corrupted and major problems occurs.So when low oil warning appears on screen.Just change the oil and then try these procedure to reset Engine oil change warning Light.

===========================

On some car models there is a Button on Dash board.The Button will have Icon " I" or it will mentioned         " ROAD"  on the button.It can be either " I" or "ROAD" not both.

Once you see the button.Turn the car  ON.Then just press these button once,twice,thrice till you see oil life reset option on display.
Once you see Oil Life reset on Display.Press the "I" or "ROAD" button firmly, till the oil system gets reset.It will hardly take 10 to 15 seconds to get reset.
Once the oil light is RESET it will turn OFF.
So you release all buttons. Turn the key to off and Turn it ON.

======================

OIL LIGHT RESET ON TOYOTA PRIUS CARS:---

On Toyota Prius its same as Ford Explorer and other Ford Vehicles.

There is a "Trip" Button on Dashboard.Just insert the key,and turn it to ON position.Then press the Trip button.Once,twice,thrice till you see "TRIP A" indicated on display panel.


Once the " TRIP A" is displayed then push the "PARK" button.
After that Press the "POWER OFF" button - Once you push the power off the car will completely turn OFF.
.
After that without wasting time  Press the "MPH/KM"( Mileage Per Hour/Kilometer) button on the dashboard. Press and hold down this "MPH/KM" button and with keeping these button pressed  restart the car by pushing the power on button.

Now Don't release these both buttons till the oil light gets reset.
It will take 10 to 15 secs to get reset.
Once the Oil light is reset,it will turn OFF.So then you can release Both these buttons.


Also see these help diagram mentioned below:---

Its the OIL LIGHT RESET Procedure From Owners Manual
oil light reset

=======================


These Basic details will help.
Thanks.


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Saturday, October 13, 2012

2006 kia rio runs rough

The engine starts fine but runs rough.


Inspect the fuel which is inside.If its dirty or wrong fuel filled the problem of vehicle running rough can occur. Also get the fuel pressure checked.If the pressure is low then required,then vehicle will run rough.

If the pressure is low,then problem relates to faulty fuel pump and clogged fuel filter.Inspect and replace both,if checked out faulty or very old.

At our repair garage,one customer with same problem of engine running rough,the issue was with the fuel is backing up into your emissions canister causing a rich condition due to too much fuel and trying to flood the engine.
Try not topping off the tank when filling and try filling the gas at a slower rate. If these don't work have the emission system checked for clogged tubes, clogged charcoal canister or a bad vent control valve. You will need a scanner for this or have a dealer or repair shop scan it for you.



On some cases engine light keeps coming on and the car bogs down and runs rough.

On that cases the vehicle engine module needs to be scanned,to retrieve the error codes stored in it.

Also on cases the problem is related to low compression on engine cylinders.
So in that case the low compression cylinder needs to be replaced.

But if compression checked ok,or before directly replacing the faulty low compression cylinder I recommend to inspect valve.On some of such cases the problem was  a bad valve causing the problem. There is a simple test to determine if it is a valve or not.
Take a cap full of motor oil and put it into the cylinder, then retest compression. IF the compression is higher, then the problem is with the rings, if it stays the same, then it is a valve issue.
This is a effective test to determine which way to go on the car.


IF in case the Kia Rio runs rough at idle but is OK at higher RPMs


Then check the timing belt to make sure the timing marks still line up and not got misaligned. Other then that  check the throttle position sensor (tps).
You can easily test the TPS. For that  unplug the tps and with a volt meter set to ohms check the resistance between the top and middle terminal. The reading should be 1.6-2.4 ohms with the throttle closed.


If in case the timing marks are not aligned right,then to realign the timing marks.

You should never turn the cam, you should always turn the engine at the crank shaft.

See the help diagram shown below to realign timing belt marks:----

timing belt marks



Please note to align timing marks the Intake and Exhaust cams both have to line up with the two nibs at the top, and the dowel pin on the crankshaft must line up with the pointer above the crankshaft gear.


AT out garage we received same problem,with one of the client.He towed the vehicle to our garage and these is what we did,.

It was timing marks misaligned.


At our auto repair garage store we opened up the timing cover and found that the rear cam was off by one tooth in the counterclockwise direction and that the forward cam was off by two teeth in the clockwise direction.

Always keep the appropriate diagrams handy,these let you know how exactly the timing belt has to be set.

Correcting the situation may be very tricky if you are newbie or doing it first time.But patience is the key, don't panic and go step by step further very gently. It will take you about 3 to 4 attempts before you can finally understand the simple  method to do so.

Keep basic auto repair tools handy.You will need to use a ratchet on the cam sprocket bolts to position them and keep them from moving .Always do these task with someone there to help you,to hold the tools or to engage the timing belt with the sprocket teeth. Once these is done now you can start by seating the timing belt on the crankshaft sprocket and using it to line up the marks.

Once these is done then proceed to the rear cam, then the forward cam, and finally installed the tension pulley on the forward side of the engine.

Once these all procedure is done.Now see carefully near you,that nothing is got left out.Close the cover and now test your work,which you have performed.In our garage repair case the vehicle runs like new and customer was very happy.


These details will help.
Thanks.



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