Sunday, January 27, 2013

Dodge Ram has No Warm Air

NO WARM AIR FROM CABIN VENTS


Thermostat tested good and coolant level is fine.Also there is no engine overheat issue noticed while driving.


It Does get slightly warmer turning it from full cold to full hot.


At our Auto repair garage we have seen lots of such similar and relative cases,when AC and heater both functions but not completely and correctly.

Your case is also one of them.

In your case also the heat is there but not completely warm its getting.

So suppose its ineffective to control temperature at all then i believe the problem is related to  blend door but as per what you described your problem I really don't think that is certainly in your case. Because when turning from cold to hot you get bit of warmness.

The blend door is the door in the heater box that controls temperature. It is driven with an electronic actuator controlled by the control head on the dash.
In your case you receive bit of heat,these confirms that blend door is functioning.So this tells us that the door, control head and actuator are most likely ok.


Also in your description you mentioned that coolant level is fine.
I exactly dont how you checked the coolant level.But if you are confident that its full then on some cases its leaking coolant,also get the coolant leak issue confirmed by getting the coolant line pressure test done.
On some cases we see that problem results due to air in heater core causing these.

If air is caught in the heater core it leads to lack of heat problem. Air can be stuck either from a leak resulting in low coolant level or lack of bleeding the system after a cooling system repair.

But if coolant level is tested full and you don't hear any gurgling sounds from the dash on acceleration then you can rule out air in the heater core.

On such types of problem mostly the possible reason is low coolant or faulty thermostat or issue with blend door or faulty blend door actuator.But if all these most common possibilities if checked ok,then

Most probably on your case its a restricted heater core. Over time dirt,dust and corrosion can develop on the specific cores within where the coolant passes and it puts a stop to coolant from flowing appropriately.
In the same way if there isn't sufficient hot coolant flowing by the core then it can't properly heat the air. As your vehicle model it uses modern heater core brands. And as per modern day heater core design you cannot always depend on being able to feel a temperature variation between the hoses anymore.

To correct these problem i suggest flushing the heater core and that should take care of your problem.
Inspect and clean the heater hoses correctly.There will be two hoses.
The heater hoses located at the firewall and follow them forward. One will go to a tube at the water pump, remove it at that joint. The other hose goes along the right valve cover and will have a coupler inline, remove it there.Before removing the hoses understand its positioning.Refit it same way as it was fitted before.

For flushing,servicing and cleaning the heater core follow the procedure:---



Run water through the heater core using a garden hose, watching the water flowing out.At beginning the dirty water will flow out,let it flow. Once it starts to flow clear water then stop and flow water in the opposite direction. When it starts to run clear again switch back to the other direction. Flush till you get any dirty dustiness in the water.

Then re-install the hoses, bleed the cooling system and you should find that your heat is back.Please make sure no air gets trapped or remain in the heater core.Bleed the cooling system line completely.


These details will help.
Thanks.


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=========



Dodge Ram 1500 Sport Has No Fuel Pressure and No Power To Coil

NO FUEL PRESSURE

IGNITION COIL HAS NO POWER 


1998 Dodge Ram has no fuel pressure and ignition coil shows no voltage, Tested MAP sensor it shows 5 volts.


Experts Answer to these problem:

There are few possibilities that can cause these problem or such types of relative problems:----

The most possible is faulty PCM ( Powertrain control module).
But without confirming other possibilities directly replacing PCM is not a good idea.

WHY i think it can be PCM because ...............


The PCM is not alert, and that is one reason for fuel pump not running, 

Another possibility there is no power to the coil from the ASD relay, and definitely your fuel gauge and voltmeter don't work with the key on. The 5v you observed at the MAP sensor conveys to us that the PCM may be trying to power up, but it's far from the accurate 5v you must see with the key on.

But on some cases at our garage we recognize that it all appears like faulty PCM but at last something diffrent gets diagnosed as cause of the problem.It can be a loss of power or ground to the PCM. So without forget get the wiring checked to and from PCM.Also check all fuses so your next step would be to check right at the PCM. 
For inspecting the wiring one easiest thing on your vehicle is unplug the black connector and you'll see the terminals are labeled underneath. 

Your focus should be on pins 2 and 22, these two must have battery voltage with the key on. Pins 31 and 32 are the grounds. Its recommended to check these pins using a headlamp or fog lamp bulb if feasible, anything that will allow for some amperage flow.

Once you check and confirm that voltage and ground is OK, then the next step is to ensure that there is no short to ground on the 5v reference point circuit. The 5v reference circuit travels to the TPS, MAP, cam and crank sensors. 

A ground wire getting short on this circuit will take the PCM down. And not let PCM to function/operate and control its parts.
So it can be either wiring problem or internal shorted sensor. 
As per our auto repair experience and knowledge of what we have observed through years the crank sensor is the most common sensor to cause this. 

As per your vehicle mentioned the 5v reference circuit will be a violet/white wire.

If in your case that also checks out ok then further you have to check for a short to voltage on the sensor ground wire, which goes to all sensors and is black/light blue. If this wire is shorted to voltage because of a wiring issue or internally shorted sensor then it will prevent the PCM from functioning.

If almost everything checks out ok then the problem is interior in the PCM.
And you will need to replace the PCM.


These details will help.
Thanks.


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2004 Chrysler Concorde Shows OBD code P1776

TROUBLESHOOT OBD ERROR CODE P1776


Received error code P1776 on 2004 Chrysler Concorde

Vehicles goes in limp mode while downshift.


There are many solenoids in the valve body. P1776 sets when the solenoid switch valve (SSV) in the valve body sticks, or the other reason is TCM .  P1776 also sets if  TCM thinks that Solenoid valve body is blocked or out of its position.On some cases its also faulty TCM or pressure switches.


So it can be faulty SSV sticking or TCM. Generally the valve body is exchanged for this to take care of the problem, but at out auto garage repair store we have good luck with disassembling them and reworking the bore a little bit.

More probably it's going to be your solenoid pack that is faulty. replacing the solenoid will help,but sometimes if the low/reverse pressure switch is bad in it then this code will still get set, even after you replace the solenoid switch valve.

If the pack used is a rebuilt one then that makes it more likely to be bad for a couple reasons. First is quality control. Second, there were manufacturing problems identified with solenoid packs of this era, where it was almost expected to have a bad low/reverse pressure switch at some point.

For parts i suggest  with a new Mopar or aftermarket pack.


If you have already replaced the part and still the error code P1776 comes ON then in that cases i suggest you to try these possibilities :-----


  • What you can try is hardwire the low/reverse pressure switch from the trans to the TCM. 
  • Run a new wire from the solenoid pack connector on the top/right side of the trans entirely to the module. 
  • Solder the connections, seal them with cooling compound and cut the old wire out of the circuit. 

I suggest using branded parts,so the problem gets solved completely.


Regarding the wiring i will say:


For low/reverse pressure switch there is a solid dark green wire. It's in pin 2 of the solenoid pack and pin 29 of connector 4 at the powertrain control module.This detail is as per your vehicle brand model.

These details will help.
Thanks.



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2003 Chrysler Concorde Struggled to Accelerate

OBD Code P0700 on Chrysler

Check engine light ON and vehicle struggles to accelerate.

Also engine RPM goes high



I got the code by cycling the ignition key ON-OFF.
The procedure is on, off, on, off and then on


SOLUTION AND REASON FOR THESE PROBLEM:----




In your case the issue is in fact with the transmission instead of engine. What has happened is the transmission gone into limp-in mode, where it's restricted to second gear. For this reason it takes off sluggishly and engine RPM's are higher while driving a vehicle.

Now coming to the OBD error code which you got. P0700 sets in the engine controller when there's a fault code stored in the transmission control module.
On these case,
the first thing to be done is to diagnose the problem. These can be done once you  read the fault codes from the trans controller with a scan tool or code reader. Cycling the key will allow you to read codes from the engine controller only but not any of the other modules.
Most large parts stores like Autozone will read codes for free in the parking lot with a code reader.
Once you receive that codes you will get another OBD code for correcting the problem.



THE CUSTOMERS REPLY:-----

I received more error code when got my vehicle scanned at autozone the first code was similar which i manually retrieved by cycling ignition key but one more OBD code i received is P1776

THE EXPERTS REPLY:---





As mentioned previously
The P0700 just sets in the engine controller when there is a code stored in the trans controller. So just ignore Error code P0700.

The one related to the actual problem is the P1776.

The explanation for Error code P1776 :-----

P1776 sets because solenoid switch valve in the transmission valve body gets blocked in the low/reverse position or the transmission control module (TCM) does not get that solenoid switch valve is in correct position.


WHAT IS SOLENOID SWITCH VALVE?
The solenoid switch valve is a valve in the valve body that allows the same solenoid to be used to apply either the low/reverse clutch or the torque converter clutch. It moves backwards and forwards in a bore to direct fluid in either direction.


HOW EXACTLY TCM KNOWS THAT FLUID IS REQUIRED?
These is done by pressure switches.In the solenoid pack mounted on top the valve body there exists a series of pressure switches that tells the TCM when there is fluid pressure in the different hydraulic circuits.

When the P1776 sets it's because the low/reverse pressure switch has indicated fluid pressure on the low/reverse circuit when the torque converter clutch should have been turned on.


REASONS FOR THESE ERROR CODE TO OCCUR?

Here are a few possibilities that can cause this. It could be wiring or the TCM itself but that would be rare.

A solenoid switch valve sticking.
They can wear into the soft aluminum bore over time and start to stick and cause this code to set.

Another possibilities failed low/reverse pressure switch, and this is the most common cause for the code.

As I talked about before that the pressure switches are located in the solenoid pack, and they're serviced with the solenoid pack. There were many solenoid packs in this time frame that were identified as built with suspect pressure switches in them.

I suggest to replace the solenoid pack and while the valve body is out, without forget inspect the solenoid switch valve bore and polish it up if required. The solenoid pack is almost surely the cause of your problem but since the valve bore does wear a bit I always make sure it's in good condition before re-installing the valve body.

These details will help.
Thanks.



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Friday, January 25, 2013

Chrysler TC by Maserati: 1989 Chrysler TC by Maserati will turn over but not start


TURNS OVER BUT NOT START

QUESTION:



Its 1989 Chrysler TC by Maserati with 40k mi. Vehicle has been parked in garage for nearly last 2 years. Now while starting (after replacing battery) it turns over but does not start. A nearby mobil auto mechanic check it out and said injectors weren't receiving fuel. Auto technician replaced fuel pump and fuel filter but vehicle however does not start. Experimented with replacing fuel pump relay but still does not start.

What do you highly recommend?

(Note: mechanic did not depressurize the fuel system before replacing pump, but did attempt to depressurize it afterward by following service manual's guidelines to connect wires to prongs on plug in wiring harness at fuel rail (?) and connecting ends to positive terminal of battery and ground.

Now these is what he did.Is this the correct plug?

Do you think that the no start problem is caused by not depressurizing the system?)


At present there is spark received and fuel pump turns over for 2 seconds while turning the Key on.
Please help!!!!

==========

EXPERT ANSWER:


According to me it appears like the issue is with reduced power to the fuel pump resulting in these dilemma.
The pump could be lacking power but it might also be losing ground.

Did your mechanic examined to ensure that there are two power feeds to the relay with the key on?

If not get it done,these will help to confirm the problem.

To execute these test you'll possibly need to check with a test light or voltmeter. There must be two power feeds there.

If power is ok then jump connection between pin 30 and 87 of the relay and see if the fuel pump turns on.

If it does not come on then the second step is access the pump again to check power and ground to see which it's missing and go from there.

Suppose if the relay power feeds are ok but there is no power at the pump when it's jumped then the wire is damaged in between someplace and the circuit will possibly need to be hardwired or the split located and fixed.

If the pump does in fact have power but is missing ground then it's either going to be a wiring issue or a corroded ground.

So all in all here are fairly a few possible issues and it's going to take some tests to figure out exactly why the pump isn't operating. You can start by verifying the power feeds, jump the relay and see what happens, and then check for power and ground if required.

These details will help.
Thanks.



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Tuesday, January 22, 2013

Chrysler Sebring Touring: 2007 4dr Sebring 2.4 engine dies at idle


Chrysler Sebring 2.4 engine dies at idle

Engine dies at idle intermittently while at stop light or when engine gets warm


Question:

There is no check engine light, still scanned the engine module with no error code stored,the vehicle starts and runs fine with no problems but suddenly dies at idle without any indication.

Is it faulty PCM or any other know issue causing these problem?

Please Help !!!!!!!!1


Answer by expert:-


Thanks for asking your question here.


There are a few things I will mention below to troubleshoot these issue noticed on your vehicle:-----


  • Primary will be software. We have seen a good number of software changes to the PCM, often with a TSB but just as often there are updates released with no TSB's or certification. The first thing to start is make sure the PCM software is up to date.If not then get the PCM software updated from nearest Chrysler dealer.

  • Other then this i suggest you to get the crank sensor connector checked and inspected. If the connector seems faulty then i suggest to replace the crank sensor connector. Why i am suggesting to inspect and replace crank sensor because at our auto repair garage we have seen many such connector getting faulty causing same types of problem. And as per your vehicle model mentioned these early World engines had problems with terminal grip at the crank sensor connector and it will cause driveability issues and sometimes crank sensor codes to set. Replacement of the connector may take care of the issue.

  • But if the crank sensor looks fine then other thing to be checked is burning of the fuel pump connector. A poor connection in between the pump connector and pump will result in the connector getting melt, which definitely will aggravate the poor connection. I've come across this cause intermittent driveability problems exactly like you are having, and won't set a code in the PCM since it's not monitored or controlled by the PCM. Replacement of the pump and connector together is usually necessary to repair this. The pump has an access panel under the left rear seat and you could check this fairly quickly.

  • As per my vehicle repair experience its not the  PCM locking up. If the PCM was locking up somehow then it wouldn't restart the way it does. Usually when a module locks up it needs a power cycle (battery disconnect) to unlock, if it does unlock. If it's starting right back up I wouldn't suspect a PCM issue.And in your case the vehicle dies at idle but it will again restart normally and run.So PCM getting lock up is not possible.

These details will help.
Thanks.


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Car Clutch Makes Noise

Clutch Pedal Problem

WORN THROWOUT BEARING


Question:---

Vehicle drives fine but when Clutch Pedal is Pushed in the clutch makes noise.Its like Roaring and grinding Clutch Pedal Assembly.

But once the clutch pedal is released the noise stops.

What can cause these noise?

Please Help!!!



Answer by expert:--

Hello sir thanks for asking the question here.

At our Auto garage repair store we deal will many vehicles in the form of truck,van,jeep facing these kind of problem.

I will share the details and troubleshooting for this problem.

Like as you already said ,If the noise happens when pressing the clutch pedal and then goes away when clutch pedal is released then that's the issue with throwout bearing. 


Yes its worn throwout bearing.

Its the bearing on the clutch fork.


This bearing  moves forward toward the engine when pressing the clutch. The bearing pushes against the spring fingers on the clutch pressure plate when you press the pedal and this is what disengages the clutch. 

Since the only time the bearing spins and has a load on it is when you press the clutch pedal this is the only time it will make noise, and when you let off the pedal then it will stop pretty quickly. If the noise happens only when pressing the pedal and then goes away when you let off the pedal then it's going to have to be the throwout bearing.

I suggest you to get the throwout bearing inspected and replaced.
These will help.
Thanks.

blinkers, stereo, and wipers will not work


Multiple problems noticed on 2000 Jeep Wrangler United States Manufactured Model.

CLUTCH GRINDING NOISE


QUESTION:----

While driving the vehicle noticed that blinkers, stereo and wipers not working.It will only work until turned the vehicle off and restarted it.

Including these problem suddenly other problem arise after that, It is the clutch grinding issue. The  clutch grinds when the clutch pedal is pushed in; But if the radio turns ON then there is no grinding clutch noise heard.

Is it some kind of short If not, then why the clutch would be affected by it?

More explanation about Grinding noise from the Customer who owns the Jeep Wrangler ..........


The Grind noise occurs when I turn the vehicle on; I already have the clutch pedal pushed in to start the jeep. Initially  while the start there is  very subtle grind noise heard but when the clutch  pedal is released it stops and again next time when clutch pedal is pushed in the loud grinding noise is heard .
But what i feel confusing is that this only happens when my radio and blinkers don't work.If While i start the vehicle and if radio and blinkers start then no such grinding noise is heard.

Please Explain me Why?



ANSWER BY EXPERT:---


Heelo customer.
Thanks for asking the problem.
I will like to share my Auto garage vehicle repair experience Suggestion with you.
As per what details you have provided, it sounds like the noise is appearing due to a failing throwout bearing.
The throwout bearing is the bearing that presses on the pressure plate to release the clutch when you press the pedal.
For your knowledge the clutch assembly system is a completely mechanical system where your other problem is electrical, and the systems are completely unrelated. Both the issues , one the radio and blinkers not working and other the clutch grind noise are two different issues.
I know it appears they problems are related and you can try repairing the electrical problem first, but it's highly unlikely that the problems are truly tied together.

Below i will explain your why these 2 issues are different problems and not related to each other:-----

The wipers, radio and turn signals not working is being caused by a bad ignition switch.It a very common problem and we at our auto garage deal with such problem regularly.
What has happened is the contacts in the switch are burnt and it's taking down a large power feed circuit. You would probably find if you moved the key forward and back a bit while it's acting up these items would come back on.
So getting the ignition switch checked and replaced if found to be faulty will help to solve the one problem.

In the same way getting the throwout bearing inspected and replaced will help to solve the other problem.

These will help.
Thanks.





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Saturday, January 19, 2013

Chrysler Van System Too Lean Bank 1

OBD Error Code P0171 On Chrysler Van


Chrysler Van will not Start 



The starter turn over right but Engine will not start and Error code P0171 comes up.
n these case first see if you could hear the fuel pump turning ON when you crank/ start the engine.

Normally when you turn the key to start and start to Run you hear fuel pump running noise for 1-2 seconds.Hear that noise.If that fuel pump start noise is not heard then its fuel pump start up failure.

NOW why these code P0171 gets set:----


Engine running rich or Engine running Lean all is controlled by PCM.
The powertrain control module (PCM) has control and ability to watch the upstream oxygen sensors to know how rich or lean the engine is running. It has the ability to compensate for rich or lean conditions up to an extent. Suppose if the PCM detects Engine running lean, then in that condition it will start adding more and more fuel to try to bring it back to the correct range. It can add up to about 33% more fuel, and if it still can't bring the ratio back into the correct range then it will set this fault code. This could be a bad upstream oxygen sensor or MAP sensor, fuel quality issue, but in your case it was most likely caused by low fuel pressure.So first get the fuel pressure tested,these will help to confirm the problem.

As per our Auto garage repair experience ,With code P0171  set and you not hearing the pump run plus a no start condition is pointing to a likely fuel pump failure.
So first check fuel pressure,then check for power and ground at the pump connector while a helper cycles the key on and off or cranks the engine. If the pump does have power and ground but won't run then it will need to be replaced.If the pump has power but pressure is less then also pump is faulty.Also it can be faulty fuel pump relay,as power is not there.

The fuel pump relay is located in the box under the hood which you could try swapping with another and see if that helps but it's unlikely. Relays very seldom fail.

To measure the fuel pressure the simple procedure is as follows :--


Remove the fuel line from the rail and install a T hose inline and then attach the fuel pressure gauge to the T hose. There isn't a test port on the fuel rail itself on your Chrysler Van model.

Many a times confirming the fuel pump start up noise becomes very difficult.In that case take the help of helper.




As per Chrysler Van the pump connector is easily accessed, it clips up to the frame right behind the fuel tank located towards the center of the tank area.

With the chime going off when turning the key on it can be tough to hear the pump. It would be best to have a helper back near the tank or a helper turning the key while you listen back there.

For mode help and information regarding fuel pump connector ,There are four wires in the connector. The one to be checked are black/light green which is ground, and the fuel pump driver wire is dark blue/orange.

These details will help.
Thanks.





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What to Do When Car Turns Over But Won't Start?
 --------------
Car takes time to Crank and start?
------------
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-----------
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------------
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----------------
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Jeep Wrangler Erratic Shifting

1999 Jeep Wrangler Under Full Throttle Jeep Shifts At 4k RPM



Throttle Shifts In and Out of Overdrive.


It can be issue with TPS also called as Throttle Position Sensor.


As per our Auto garage repair Experience I will share few troubleshooting tips regarding the cause and solution to this problem


As per what you mentioned I  expect more than 4,000 RPM at wide open throttle but not much more than that.

We at our Auto garage have noticed many such problems it's very much possible that low engine power is the issue. 
Another possibility is Low fuel pressure.
Low fuel pressure could cause it but that would usually come with spark knock on acceleration. 
But as you mentioned low engine power and erratic shifting with no error codes retrieved the most common cause of lack of engine power with no codes is a restricted catalytic converter due to internal breakup. 
To confirm the problem.
A backpressure test can be done to check the converters.


There are many other possibilities that can too cause these issues:-------
Like transmission related:-----
There are a couple things transmission related that could cause it too. 
As per your jeep brand and model/ year mentioned , it has primitive three speed trans with a mechanical governor in the tail housing. As per what i recollect these governors gave some trouble over the years with the governor valve sticking in the bore and causing shift issues.May be what exactly you are noticing, called low engine power and erratic shifting. It's very possible that the governor is stuck. To confirm whether governor pressure is issue.Governor pressure can be checked with a pressure gauge on the governor pressure tap on the trans.

As earlier mentioned it can be faulty throttle position sensor, but also It's possible that the throttle valve cable could be misadjusted too. 
To understand throttle cable working read the following:-----
The throttle valve cable goes from the trans to the throttle body.Now when you open the throttle it moves the throttle valve in the valve body and this has a huge influence on shift timing. If the cable was adjusted too long it would cause upshifts to be early.And may be these is what your problem.

As per your problem mentioned there is no one confirm solution to be pinpointed but there are few possibilities.Each can be possible.So looking at all possible issues will help you know what caused these issue on your jeep wrangler.


Like its mentioned before the erratic shifting is a common symptom of a governor issue or misadjusted throttle valve cable so those two things are where you're going to need to start. 

Like other possibilities, it can  be a leaking front clutch too, but definitely start by addressing these other things.

For  overdrive issue which you mentioned is actually torque converter lockup, it's a three speed transmission. Since you're having erratic idle and torque converter clutch operation at the same time it's extremely likely that the throttle position sensor issue. 
I suggest get the TPS inspected and replaced and see if same problem is there or its gone.
If you need to confirm the issue with TPS before getting New TPS, you can try these simple TPS test procedure.When it's idling erratic you can unplug the sensor, if the idle calms down then you know the TPS is the problem. 

At out garage we have also seen in some cases that problem was actually not TPS but it was  with TPS connector terminal grip, replacing the connector may take care of  problems. If you do replace the TPS  be sure to use a Mopar sensor to avoid future problems.It a good reputed brand of parts.


These details will help.
Thanks.




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