Sunday, September 29, 2013

Truck Window Will Not Roll Up

Power Window Will Not Go Up

The automatic window on our  truck rolled down but will not roll up


Power Window not moving up has many possible issues:---

First make sure that the fuses and relays are all OK. Next to check whether other windows move up-down. If they do then the problem is with that particular window only.
Possibilities are:---

1) Jammed Motor.
A jammed motor can sometimes be enticed to work by holding the window switch in the up mode while slamming the door. 

2) A Dirty Window control switch.
To confirm this you will have to take the door panel off and check to see what is binding the lift mechanism. Many such motors have a thermal cutout when they cant close the window they tend to overheat and then disconnect - cutout. It may be that it is opened.

Also try cleaning the switch connections with some CONTACT cleaner or tuner cleaner from Radio shack or somewhere and spray INTO the switches while moving the switches.

3) Pinched or Cut Wires.
It is also possible that one of the control wires fell off .Or wires got pinched and cut while open -close movement of door.

Try these:---

With the switch pressed for the window to go up, can you hear the window motor running?

If no then,it sounds like a switch problem, the powers and grounds run through the master switch to the other door switches, if one of the switches goes bad your concern will happen, the rear door switch is the same as the passenger door switch, so you can swap out the switch and put the window up.the trim covers just pull up and they will pop off, If by chance the switch is not the problem, take a rubber mallet and smack the bottom of the door about center while pressing the switch for the window to go up, sometimes the window motor will get stuck in a position and it needs to be jarred loose.

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On such problems the most common failure for the drivers window is the main window switch. Try lifting the window switch really hard and see if the window goes up. If it does then you most likely need a master window switch. 

If the window does not go up by pressing the window switch up hard, then the door panel would need to be removed and voltage would need to be checked at the power window motor, then also inspect window regulator to see if the cable is not broken or guide is damaged.

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If the window switch is already replaced and still the power window will not roll up then,its suggested verify power to the switch , use a multi meter if you have one. The master switch gets power at the LB/BK wire. If there is power check for a good ground at the black wire. You can overlay the ground , run a wire to good ground and stick it into the master switch at the black wire spot. Like back probing the ground side of the switch. You may have a broken ground wire in the harness where it flexes in the door jam.

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Ok What if Driver side Window Is Working But Passenger Side Window Not Working?

First try and check this:

Will it not go up at all? Or just automatically? Does it make any noise when you hit the up switch.

If no movement and no noise is heard then,get in the truck, key on, engine off and close the doors. Now turn on the interior lights and see if the lights slightly dim when you hit the up button. If so you have a bad window motor in that door and will need to replace it.


This will help.
Thanks.


Climate control will not turn OFF

Buick LeSabre Climate control will not turn OFF


When the blower motor will not shut off, even with the ignition off and/or only works on the highest setting, this is most commonly a sign of a faulty Blower Motor Control Module. It's located under the hood, towards the rear of the engine compartment, mounted to the blower motor housing (see image below). Inspect the wire harness and electrical connector for any loose, broken, melted or damaged wires. If the visual inspection checks ok, suspect a faulty Module.

Buick blower motor module


Other possibility can be faulty relay:---

If the relay is your problem with the fan staying on it is located here:

HVAC module for buick

The two on the right are the cooling fan relays

The wiring diagram the fan motors is below

1995 buick fan motor wiring diagram



For the manual system pull the blower motor relay and see if that turns the fan off. If it does replace that one. The relay is about $13 list but it will be less at a parts store.

If you have levers it is manual if you have a display you set to a temperature and the system keeps that temp it is automatic.

Here is the correct diagram for a manual system

Climate control fan wiring diagram

There is a relay on your system that will shut off the blower but that is not the problem. The component that failed is the blower power module which is located here next to the blower motor on the firewall:


blower motor module

buick blower motor controlling module


It is $124 at Advance auto parts


This is the speed controller for the blower motor. First check the 10A red fuse (#11) in the underdash relay panel on the passenger side for the blower motor that is located here.

If fuse 11 is good or if you replace it and the fan continues to malfunction you will have to replace the blower power module.

buick relay diagram


This details will help.
Thanks.

Temperature gauge will go up to hot

Vehicles Temperature needle gets to hot mark very quickly

First thing here is " Do you really notice engine overheating?'
Or its just the temperature needle getting to hot and engine is normal to run.

On that case the temperature unit needs to be inspected.

The most common possibilities for such  problems are:---

  • Low coolant.Check the level of coolant.
  • Electric cooling fan not working.Faulty fan motor.Or fan motor wire cut in between.
  • A bad radiator fan switch.
  • Thermostat not opening.
  • A worn out waterpump.
  • Fan belt is broken.
  • Radiator clogged and needs cleaning or replacement.


May be its worn out thermostat or issue with water pump.

If the engine is really getting overheat so quickly then the problem lies with faulty headgasket.

Or clog in radiator itself.

The first thing to do is to make sure the colling fan runs when the engine temp is above 222 F with the a/c off. The engine control module (ECM) controls the relay for the fan. When the temp exceeds 222 f then the fan is commanded on until the engine temp decrease below 212 f. If the fan is not coming on then that would be a problem to check into first. The ECM also commands the engine cooling fan on when the a/c is on and vehicle speed is below 70 mph. So if the cooling fan comes on when the a/c is on but not when idling then we need to look at the engine coolant temp sensor input, or possibly the ECM itself. If the engine has a cylinder head gasket failure usually they do just the opposite, run hot at highway speeds and cool down at idle.
Also it can be faulty fan motor assembly or fan motor wires are cut and not letting fan to come on.

If waterpump and thermostat are already replaced and still you notice the problem then,When you installed the thermostat and water pump did you bleed the cooling system of air. When you do any kind of work on the cooling system air gets in it and must be bled out. Another thing can be problem with  lower intake gasket leaking which could cause an over heating condition. There is a coolant bypass line that bolts on top of the water pump at the top is a bleeder screw you can warm up the vehicle and open then close until coolant flows out it. Some times the air pocket can be very stubborn to get out.

This will help.
Thanks.

Dodge Journey Fuse Box Details

Dodge Journey Brake Light Fuse Box Details

For Fuse Box Diagram Under Glovebox CLICK HERE

Cavity M1 is for the 3rd brake lite and M37 is for the other brake lites. If the fuses are good then ck the bulbs.

See the Fuse Box details mentioned below:---

dodge brake light fuse


dodge fusebox details

fusebox diagram for dodge journey


 To reset the electronic controls for my climate control & multimedia center

Try pulling the fuses for the HVAC and DVD for 5 minutes.


For 2009 Dodge Wiring Details:----
Follow the wiring chart mentioned below:---

 PART  COLOR LOCATION
 12 VOLT CONSTANT  RED (+)  @ BATTERY
 STARTER SEE NOTE #1 
 STARTER 2 N/A 
 IGNITION 1 PINK/WHITE (+) @ WIRELESS IGNITION NODE,(12-PIN PLUG) PIN 3, NOTE #4
 IGNITION 2 N/A 
 IGNITION 3 N/A 
 ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 1 N/A 
 ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 2 N/A 
 KEYSENSE PINK/LIGHT BLUE (+) @ WIRELESS IGNITION NODE,(12-PIN PLUG) PIN 9, NOTE #4
 PARKING LIGHTS ( - ) N/A 
 PARKING LIGHTS ( + ) WHITE/PURPLE (+) in PASSENGER KICK PANEL or TIPM (BROWN PLUG) PIN 36, NOTE #3
 POWER LOCK PURPLE/DARK GREEN (-) thru a 330 Ohm Resistor , NOTE #2 and NOTE #5 in DRIVERS KICK PANEL or TIPM (BLACK PLUG(C7) PIN 36, NOTE #3
 POWER UNLOCK USE LOCK WIRE (-) thru a 100 Ohm Resistor, SEE NOTE #2 
 DOOR TRIGGER PURPLE (-) in DRIVERS KICK PANEL or TIPM (BLACK PLUG(C7) PIN 11, NOTE #3
 DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION YELLOW/WHITE (+) in DRIVERS A Pillar or INSTRUMENT CLUSTER (BLACK PLUG) PIN 8, NOTE #3
 TRUNK RELEASE N/A 
 SLIDING POWER DOOR N/A 
 HORN DARK GREEN/ORANGE (5-WIRE TYPE) @ HORNS or TIPM (GREEN PLUG) PIN 24, NOTE #3
 TACH Any wire NOT BROWN/GRAY or BROWN/WHITE (AC) @ Any FUEL-INJECTOR
 WAIT TO START LIGHT N/A 
 BRAKE WHITE/DARK GREEN (+) in DRIVERS KICK PANEL or TIPM (BLACK PLUG(C7) PIN 10, NOTE #3
 FACTORY ALARM DISARM  DISARMS WITH FACTORY REMOTE ONLY!! 
 ANTI-THEFT CHRYSLERS MULITPLEX IGNITION/ANTI-THEFT SYSTEM, SEE NOTE #1 

Dodge Journey fuse box diagram

2009 To 2012 Dodge Journey fuse box diagram


It is a little hard to get to, it is behind the glovebox and you need to remove the panel under the glovebox.

Fusebox Diagram as follows:

Interior Fusebox diagram for dodge

Fuse box diagram for dodge journey


For Further Dodge Journey Fuse Box details CLICK HERE:


2005 Chrysler 300 overheats

Chrysler Overheats

Unfortunately, it sounds like you may have a blown head gasket and you’ll likely need to take it in to get it repaired or at least do the test yourself.

About your vehicle.

The first thing that you want to do is check the cooling system for any exhaust gases. There is a tester for that, that you can gt from Autozone for about $20. It comes with instructions, but there is a blue fluid that is used in it, if the fluid turns yellow, that is exhaust gases.

OEM/Block Tester AUTOZONE
Part Number:
27145

Suppose If you get any exhaust gases in the cooling system, that will cause more pressure than desired and will allow the engine to burn coolant and/or heat the coolant up too high. Most times not filling the crankcase with coolant either.
If there are, then there would be an internal engine problem, like a head gasket or head.
Of course, you will want to make sure that the system is full, the coolant is circulating, and the cooling fan(s) are working as well as the pressure cap holding pressure.


Another issue can be water pump worn out or thermostat issue.But if its already replaced and new,Air in the cooling system. Needs to be burped by leaving cap off so it doesn't build up pressure, drive slowly around your neighborhood and take a supply of coolant w/you. Stop periodically and add coolant. When it finally stops accepting coolant fill the reservoir to the line, again drive slowly and recheck coolant level.

Also, is it possible you reversed the thermostat so it is blocking coolant rather than opening and letting coolant circulate?

You could have air in the system. There is a bleeder right near the thermostat housing. You may want to open that bleeder when it is cold, start it and try to get any residual air out of the system by working with that bleeder. The bubbling you see may just be due to the coolant boiling. The lower hose not getting warm at all indicates the thermostat is not opening and there is no circulation.

 Some of the symptoms suggest a leaking head gasket. Look for bubbles in the overflow reservoir. If the coolant is cold, you know it's not overheating.

Do not remove the thermostat. In some cases, that will cause overheating because the coolant won't stay in the radiator long enough to cool. More commonly, the engine won't reach operating temperature. Parts won't fit right leading to rapid engine wear, and the fuel system will not go into "closed loop" and fuel mileage will go way down.

The pressure cap simply allows system temperature to go above 212 degrees without causing the water in the coolant to boil. It doesn't CAUSE the temperature to rise.


If Overheating is not repaired on time it can cause many other issue.Also vehicle no start problem can occur.

Engine overheating can cause severe internal damage. Did the engine turn over and not fire, or not turn over at all, as in the engine is locked.

There are a couple of possibilities, the most likely is that your overheating caused damage to the cylinder walls which is now causing low compression, resulting in a no start condition. It is also possible that some other component failed at the same time as the overheating, and that component is causing the no start, i.e., a bad crank sensor or something of that nature. If you let the engine overheat to the point that it began shutting off, then it is extremely likely that you have internal engine damage.

ALSO OVERHEATING CAN BE DUE TO fan not running as the rotating fan assembly is now severely out of balance. This in turn would probably cause the fan motor/bearings to fail, or blow a fuse. If they are damaged/blown then naturally your engine will start to overheat, unless you get air moving over the radiator element by driving it at moderate speed.

Dodge ram ecm connector no start

NO START DUE TO ECM CONNECTOR


ECM is vehicles brain.That controls the electrical system of vehicle.It also excepts the signals from sensors and commands the electrical parts to operate at their respective time period.This is how your vehicle starts and stops.

05 dodge ram 3500 5.9 diesel no gauges,no start,no communication with ecm with the key on i can unplug the blue connector to ipm or the c1 connector of pcm then plug back in and everything will power up and work fine until key is turned off for a short period of time then it wont power up until one of the connectors is unplugged i have checked power and grounds to and from ign switch,ipm,ecm everything seems to be in order. when i have no power i have no 5v ref on c2-33,c1-41,c1-54,c1-27 but then i have battery voltage on c2-23,c1-25.

Try this solution:
Disconnect the electronic fan clutch connector and check if ECM response returns and the engine starts. Replace the fan clutch assembly if normal operation returns with the fan clutch disconnected.

i tried it three times works every time thanks a million.

dodge ram 5.9 turn over but wont start new wires an plugs new stater and crank sensor new ecm and coil.

When you turn the ignition to the run position can you hear the fuel pump in the fuel tank run for a couple of seconds and then turn off?

that tells me that the PCM is powering up and is probably ok. Now have you checked for spark at one of the spark plugs while cranking the engine.

With the test light test the voltage at coli.
let's see if you are getting the 12 volt feed to the coil from the ASD relay. Disconnect the coil 2 way connector, ground the test lead clip to a good ground and then probe both terminals in the connector while some one else turns on the ignition. The light should power up for a couple of seconds and then go off. You should see this on one of the terminals.

I want to see if the PCM is seeing the crank and cam sensor signals when the engine is cranking. Do the test for ASD voltage at the coil connector again (test light clip on negative, and probe in the green/orange wire) you said that you did get power there for a couple of seconds after turning on the ignition. Now check that while cranking the engine. The light should come back on if the PCM sees a valid cam and crank signal.

If no light is coming this tells me the PCM for some reason is not seeing a cam and/or crank sensor signal, or the signals are out of sync (timing chain jumped). Let's try this: Crank the engine for at least 15 seconds and then check codes If the crank or cam sensor is not sending a signal then the PCM should  set a code. 

================

boosted the dodge ram diesel 6 speed ,then thinking is would check the alternator i disconnected the battery's it stop and wont start at all. all it does is blow fuse 42 PCM.

Exact Color of the wire is red.its a 30 amp fuse.

Fuse 42 feeds the solid red wire leaving the TIPM at pin 1 of connector 3 and goes straight to the ECM. If the fuse is blowing but doesn't blow with this wire removed then it's either shorted to ground or the ECM has failed. All you'll need to do is unplug the ECM and reinstall the wire to the TIPM connector, if the fuse doesn't blow then you know the problem is in the ECM and it will need to be replaced. Removing the battery cable with the engine running would have created a voltage spike from the charging system and would be expected to cause modules to fail, so I expect that the ECM is going to be the problem and not the wiring.
Please note ECM is called as car's computer module.

The ECM is the large square module mounted to the left side of the engine block. It has two 60-way electrical connectors that are bolted on. Just unplug these two connectors, make sure the wire is installed back in the TIPM connector, throw in a new fuse and see if it blows.


A new ECM will run about $1,760 at a dealer, cheaper if you can find an aftermarket re-manufactured unit through a parts store. You could install it, once it's installed then it will need to be programmed with a dealer scan tool before the truck will run.
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This will help.
thanks.

My Vehicle Starts After Wiggling The Electrical ECM Computer Connector ......... Read More


No Bus On Display Of Dodge Ram

ECM Connector Problem


"NO BUS" means that the communication system between the computers has stopped working.

The  PROBLEM WITH  2001 DODGE RAM 1500 PICKUP. THE DEALER Asks  100 DOLLARS AN HOUR TO FIGURE IT OUT.
Hi I have a 2000 Ram 1500 that had the same problem.
In the Electrical Power Distribution Center ( The fusebox located in the engine compartment )There is one big connector with a screw down through it that loosens or tightens the connection.

This problem is noticed by many dodge vehicle owners. For some unknown  reason that connector stop making good contact with at least one or 2 of the pins.What has to be done is take that off, clean it up, and put it back on and everything will work fine.

What is suggested is clean it better with contact cleaner and coat it with some dielectric grease and see if it stands the test of time. This specific problem generally seems to be some kind of electrical contact problem and not the Computer or any other major part.

I had the same "no bus" all gauges dead on my 2000 ram 1500. After looking at all the different answer posted I tried all of them and this one that worked. 
I tried disconnecting the main plug held down by a screw in the fuse box on the engine compartment. I disconnected, blew the plug and the connect with compressed air, plug it back in tighten the screw and my truck is fine again. Everything works as it should.

Hope this helps others too facing this same problem.

Sunday, September 22, 2013

Engine Will Not Start,Starter Turns ON

Starter spinning but the engine will not Crank


There are few possibilities that can cause the problems:---

The starter drive on your starter is faulty.

The starter drive is not engaging the flywheel to crank the engine.

The flywheel issue.The flywheel has some cracked or broken teeth that stops the starter from engaging.

Understand the starter system of the vehicle:---

On some starter the solenoid is mounted on top of the starter. 

Now When the ignition key is turned to ON, the solenoid paths current to the starter motor and at the same time pulls a lever that forwards the drive gear mechanism out so it will engage the flywheel and crank the engine. 

But when solenoid is weak or damaged, it may not be strong enough to overcome the spring tension that retracts the drive gear. So the starter spins but doesn't crank the engine. In your case this might be happening and that is what causing the problem.

On other type of starter assembly the solenoid is mounted remotely. In this starters when the starter motor starts to spin, it ratchets out so the drive gear will engage the flywheel and crank the engine. In this case if the drive mechanism is damaged or hung up, the motor may spin but not crank the engine.

In any case the starter motor has to be removed out to inspect the starter.

WHY ENGINE WILL NOT START:

This are due to few possible reasons.
What exactly any working engine needs to start?

Engine requires sufficient cranking speed, good compression, adequate ignition voltage (with correct timing) and fuel (a relatively rich air/fuel mixture initially). So whenever an engine is not able to start, any of the following is not performing.

If the engine won't crank, you are probably dealing with a starter or battery problem. 

If an engine cranks but refuses to start, it lacks ignition, fuel or compression.

When the engine cranks ordinarily but won't start, you need to check ignition, fuel and compression. Ignition can be checked with a spark tester or by positioning a plug wire near a good ground. 
No spark? The most likely causes would be a failed ignition module, distributor pickup or crank position (CKP) sensors.

car make a whistling noise

Why car make a whistling noise




There are reasons for why car makes whistling noise.

On some cases car makes whistling noise while start up.On some cases it makes whistling noise while accelerating. On some cars it starts making noise after driven for some time.

Check for vacuum leaks.Wheel bearing.

Check window seals.If the seal is loose,cracked worn out then it will let air enter the vehicle which causes whistling noise at high speed.

When the alternator is overworking it can produce a whistling noise that can vary with engine speed. 

Exhaust leak issue.A plugged exhaust - Muffler or Cat, most likely.

A fan or power steering belt slipping. Tip a bit of water on the belt while the engine's running and see if the noise stops.

Most of the cases causes of a whistling sound would be a vacuum leak, or sticking idle control system.
If the engine idles abnormally high when you first crank it up, then the malfunction is definitely in the idle system.
 
If the whistling gets louder or changes pitch with increase in RPM, then it is a belt. I t may even stop altogether, and start back when you come to a slowdown, too.

To deal with fan belt making noise issue its suggested to use  a scotchbrite pad, and 'clean' the pulleys with it.

A worn out timing belt tensioner causing this.


max